How to Clip Miniatures Off the Sprue Cleanly

Clipping parts off the sprue seems like the simplest step in building a miniature, but it's where a lot of avoidable damage happens. A careless cut can leave a chunk missing, a white stress mark in the plastic or a stubby gate that shows clearly through paint. A few good habits make the job quick and clean.

Know the parts

The sprue is the plastic frame. The gates are the small connectors that join each part to the frame. Your aim is to separate the part from the gates without cutting into the part itself, then tidy up whatever is left.

Use the flat side of your cutters

Most hobby sprue cutters have one flat side and one angled side. Place the flat side towards the part you're keeping. That lets the cutting edge sit flush and leave the smallest possible stub.

The basic movement

Position the cutters, then simply squeeze. Don't twist, pull or push the cutters while closing them, and don't lever the part away from the sprue. Twisting is the most common cause of torn plastic and stress marks.

Flat cut

Where the gate meets a flat surface, rest the flat side of the cutters just beside the part, aligned with the surface, and cut. You should be left with a barely visible mark that takes seconds to clean.

Angled cut on curved surfaces

Gates on curved or rounded surfaces, such as helmets, backpacks and shoulder pads, are trickier. Angle the flat side of your cutters so the blade meets the gate right where it joins the curve. You'll leave slightly more plastic than on a flat cut, but that's far easier to file away than repairing a flat spot cut into a round surface. Always err on the side of leaving too much.

The two-cut method for delicate parts

Thin, fragile parts such as antennae, blades, feathers, tails and spears can bend or snap if you cut right next to them. Instead:

  1. Make the first cut on the gate away from the part, closer to the frame, freeing it with a longer stub.
  2. Support the part on your work surface, ideally with a little sticky tack beneath it.
  3. Make the second, precise cut next to the part.

The same approach works for parts with many gates: free the part with rough cuts first, then trim each stub individually.

Break the sprue down first

On crowded frames, it can be hard to get your cutters in without catching another part. Cut away surrounding sections of frame first so you have clear access. It's quicker overall and much less risky.

Cleaning up the gate

After clipping, a small nub remains. Remove it with:

  • A sharp hobby knife: slice the nub away in thin shavings, cutting away from your fingers, or scrape with the blade held upright.
  • A fine file or sanding stick: smooth the area flush with the surrounding surface.
  • Light scraping on curved surfaces, following the curve.

Use a fresh blade. A blunt one tears plastic rather than cutting it, and it's more likely to slip. Mould lines can be removed at the same time with the same scraping technique.

Keep track of parts

  • Clip only the parts you need for the step you're on.
  • Check the instructions for part numbers before cutting. Some parts look identical but aren't.
  • Work over a tray, so small pieces don't fly off onto the carpet.
  • Keep unused parts on the frame or bag them for your bits box. If you enjoy converting, spares are invaluable for kitbashing.

Resin and metal parts

Resin gates are best removed with a fine saw or by scoring with a knife, because cutters can crack resin. Resin dust is harmful to breathe, so wet-sand it and never sand it dry. Metal parts can be clipped with sturdier cutters and filed smooth.

Safety

  • Small pieces of plastic can fly off when cut. Point the cutters away from your face, or wear glasses.
  • Always cut away from yourself with a knife, on a cutting mat.
  • Change blades often and dispose of old ones safely.

Clean clipping takes seconds longer per part, but it saves minutes of repair work and makes the finished paint job look far cleaner.

The same care applies to ready-painted push-fit kits, where every clipped gate leaves a small unpainted mark. If you are building the new Warhammer 40,000 terrain set, our guide to storing and transporting Battlefields: Armageddon terrain covers taking push-fit pieces apart without damage.

Independent resource published by Blubbercove Ltd. This page is not affiliated with, sponsored by, endorsed by, authorised by or licensed by Games Workshop Limited.

Warhammer 40,000, Warhammer Age of Sigmar, Warhammer: The Old World and the names of associated armies, characters and places are trademarks of Games Workshop Limited, used here without permission and solely to identify the subject. This is an unofficial fan guide.