Quick answer: put painted models where you can see them without knocking them over. Most hobbyists use a glass display cabinet for dust protection, open shelves when they want freer access, or tiered stands so back rows stay visible. Add soft, diffused light from above, keep the display out of direct sun, and dust with a soft brush. There is no single “correct” setup — match the method to your space, collection size and how often you take models off the shelf to play.
Displaying a painted army is part of the hobby. After the time spent assembling and painting Warhammer 40,000 or Warhammer Age of Sigmar miniatures, a clear, stable display turns a pile of boxes into something you actually enjoy looking at. This guide covers the main options, how to choose between them, and the practical details (light, dust, UV, organisation) that make a display last.
What “good display” means for miniatures
A useful display does four jobs:
- Visibility — you can see faces, weapons and paint without crouching or pulling models forward.
- Stability — bases do not tip when someone walks past or opens a door.
- Protection — dust, pets, children and sunlight do as little damage as possible.
- Access — you can still lift models for games without destroying the layout every time.
Trade-offs are normal. A sealed cabinet is safer from dust but slower to unpack for a tournament. An open shelf looks informal and inviting but needs a dusting routine.
Option 1: Glass display cabinets
Glass cabinets are the community default for larger painted collections. Four or more shelves behind glass keep dust down and let people see models from more than one angle. Tall, narrow cabinets fit awkward corners; wider cabinets suit vehicles and large monsters on the same shelf as infantry.
What to check before you buy or fill one:
- Shelf depth vs your deepest base (cavalry, bikes and monsters need more depth than 32 mm infantry).
- Shelf spacing — large vertical gaps waste height above infantry; adjustable shelves or added levels help.
- Door seal and how often the door will be opened.
- Weight on each shelf if you collect resin or metal models.
Cabinets alone do not solve “back row invisible”. Tiered stands or extra shelf levels inside the cabinet are what make a full army readable from the front.
Option 2: Open shelves and bookcases
Open shelves are cheap, flexible and easy to rearrange. They suit rented flats, student rooms and anyone who moves models on and off the shelf every week. The cost is dust and accidental knocks.
Mitigations that work in practice:
- Place shelves away from open windows, radiators and kitchen steam.
- Keep the densest, spikiest models toward the back or on higher shelves.
- Use a soft makeup-style brush on a short weekly schedule rather than compressed air.
- Optional clear fronts or doors if pets or toddlers share the room.
Option 3: Tiered stands and risers
Tiered stands (sometimes called risers or stadium seating) lift rear ranks so every model’s paint job is visible. They are especially useful on deep cabinet shelves and on desks where a single flat row hides everything behind the front rank.
When choosing a stand or riser, match slot size or platform size to your base sizes (for example 28–32 mm infantry vs 40–50 mm heroes vs larger monster bases). A stand that is too tight chips paint; one that is too loose lets models slide.
Option 4: Wall shelves, shadow boxes and floating displays
Wall-mounted options free floor space. Check wall type and weight ratings before loading metal or resin. Shadow boxes with a clear front combine décor and dust control for small elite collections (for example a single kill team or a hero display).
Option 5: Display boards and dioramas
A scenic board turns a painted force into a scene. Boards are common at painting competitions and Armies on Parade–style events, and they also work as a living-room centrepiece for a single army. Keep the board’s ground scheme consistent with your bases so the force reads as one collection.
For event board sizes, always check the current published event terms — they can change between years.
Lighting without washing out your paint
Light changes how acrylics look more than almost any other display choice.
- Prefer neutral white task lighting in the roughly 3000–4000 K range as a starting point; very cool blue-white can flatten warm colours.
- Diffuse the light (cover, channel or bounce) to avoid hot spots on metallics and lenses.
- Light from above / front-above so models look closer to how you painted them under a desk lamp.
- Hide cables at the back of the cabinet; USB or low-voltage strips are usually enough for hobby cabinets.
RGB party lighting is fun for photos; it is a poor primary light if you want true paint colour.
Dust, UV, pets and climate
- Dust: soft brush; avoid blasting painted miniatures with compressed air.
- UV / sun: keep displays out of direct sunlight; UV film on glass is an option if the cabinet must sit near a window.
- Pets and children: closed doors beat open shelves; museum putty can secure individual centrepieces without permanent adhesive.
- Heat and damp: lofts, garages and window sills are poor long-term homes for painted plastic and resin.
How to organise an army on display
Pick one organising rule and stick to it so the shelf stays readable:
- By unit or battlefield role (troops together, elites together, monsters as centrepieces).
- By colour scheme or chapter / faction narrative.
- By “best painted” front row for living-room décor, with the wider collection elsewhere.
Label the back of shelves or use a simple inventory if you own multiple overlapping forces — it saves hunting for a unit the night before a game.
A simple decision path
- Do you need dust and pet protection? → favour a closed glass cabinet.
- Do you unpack every week? → favour open shelves or a cabinet you will actually open.
- Are back rows invisible? → add height (tiers / extra shelf levels), not only more width.
- Is the room bright with sun? → move the display or add UV control before you fade a prize paint job.
- Is floor space tight? → wall shelves or one tall cabinet beats several low bookcases.
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Warhammer, Warhammer 40,000 and Age of Sigmar are registered trade marks of Games Workshop Limited. All rights reserved.
Frequently asked questions
How should I display Warhammer miniatures at home?
Choose cabinet, open shelf or tiered stand based on dust risk, space and how often you play. Most collectors combine a cabinet for the main force with a small open desk display for the models they are currently painting.
Do I need a display case?
Only if dust, pets or children are a real problem, or you want a furniture-like showcase. Many painters use open shelves successfully with a simple dusting habit.
How do I stop the back row disappearing?
Add height: tiered stands, risers or extra shelf levels inside the cabinet. Wider furniture alone does not fix stacked ranks.
What light is best?
Soft, diffused neutral-white light from above. Avoid a single bare cool-white strip that glares on metallics.
Should I varnish before displaying?
A protective varnish (often matt or satin, with selective gloss on lenses or wet effects) helps against light handling and dust wiping. Follow the paint and varnish maker’s guidance for your miniatures.