Magnetising a base means fitting a small magnet into the underside of a miniature's base so the model grips a steel surface. Done properly it takes about two minutes per model, costs a few pence, and means your army travels in a case without sliding into a heap. The process is simple, but there are three things that decide whether it works: the depth available under the base, whether your receiving surface is actually magnetic, and how well the magnet is bonded.
This guide walks through the whole job, including the parts most tutorials skip.
Why hobbyists magnetise bases
- Transport. A magnetised army in a steel-lined case survives a car journey without models tipping over and snapping antennae.
- Storage. Models stay upright on a steel shelf or in a shallow drawer instead of needing individual foam cutouts.
- Stopping models sliding. On a movement tray, magnets keep a unit together while you move it around the table.
- Organising a collection. Models can be rearranged freely rather than being locked into fixed foam compartments sized for a squad you no longer run.
What you need
- Neodymium disc magnets in a size that fits the base recess, commonly 3x1mm or 5x1mm
- Cyanoacrylate (super glue), gel type is more forgiving than thin
- Optional two-part epoxy putty for packing out deep recesses
- A ferrous receiving surface: steel sheet, steel paper, or a steel-lined case
- A ruler or, much better, digital calipers
- A marker pen
- Eye protection if you are cutting or trimming plastic
If you are unsure which magnet size to buy, our guide to choosing magnet sizes for miniatures covers the trade-offs in detail.
The important bit: magnets do not stick to all metal
This catches people out constantly. A magnet is only attracted to ferromagnetic material, which in practice means steel and iron. Aluminium is not magnetic. Most stainless steel used in kitchenware is not magnetic either, or is only weakly so. Brass, copper and zinc do nothing at all.
Before you magnetise fifty models, take a loose magnet and test it against the actual surface you intend to use. If it does not grab firmly on its own, no amount of magnet upgrading inside the base will fix it. Buy steel sheet or self-adhesive steel paper sold for this purpose and test that instead.
Magnet-to-steel versus magnet-to-magnet
Two systems are possible, and they behave differently.
Magnet-to-steel puts a magnet in the base and a plain steel surface in the tray or case. It is simpler, cheaper, and completely immune to polarity mistakes: every model fits anywhere, in any rotation. This is what almost everyone should use for bases.
Magnet-to-magnet puts magnets in both the base and the tray. It holds harder for a given magnet size, but every magnet has to be installed the right way round or the model will actively repel and slide off. It also locks models to fixed positions. For bases, the added strength is rarely worth the added complexity.
Step-by-step: magnetising a base
- Inspect the underside clearance. Turn the base over. Most modern bases are hollow with a raised outer lip. That hollow is where the magnet goes, and the lip is what sets your depth limit.
- Measure the available depth. Use calipers to measure from the inner floor of the recess to the bottom edge of the lip. This is the maximum magnet thickness you can use without the magnet standing proud. Often it is only 1mm to 2mm.
- Choose the magnet. Pick a thickness that fits within that depth, and the largest diameter that sits comfortably inside the recess. For a 32mm base, 3x1mm is a common choice. For 50mm and up, 5x1mm or a pair of smaller discs.
- Test the magnet against your receiving surface. Hold the loose magnet against the steel. It should grab decisively. If it feels weak now, it will feel weaker once it is recessed inside a base.
- Clean the surfaces. Wipe the recess with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry. Release agent and mould dust are a common cause of magnets popping off later.
- Establish consistent positioning. For magnet-to-steel, position does not need to be identical between models, but keeping the magnet central and consistent makes models sit evenly. If you are using magnet-to-magnet, mark the exposed face of every magnet with a marker before gluing so polarity stays consistent.
- Dry-fit. Place the magnet in position without glue. Check it sits flat and does not protrude past the lip. Place the base on a flat surface and confirm it does not rock.
- Glue securely. Apply a small amount of gel super glue to the recess floor, then set the magnet in place. Press it down for a few seconds. Avoid flooding the recess; excess glue squeezes out around the edges and can raise the magnet.
- Let the adhesive cure. Give it several minutes at minimum, and ideally leave it an hour before stressing the joint. Super glue reaches handling strength quickly but full strength takes longer.
- Test properly. Place the model on the steel and lift it the way you normally would, by the base or body. Do not test by yanking it sideways. Sideways shear is not how the model will be handled, and it will pull almost any base magnet off eventually.
Packing out a deep recess
Some bases have a recess deeper than any magnet you want to use, which leaves the magnet sitting well above the steel with a large air gap. Air gaps reduce holding force fast, so this is worth fixing.
The simple solution is to fill the recess floor with a small amount of two-part epoxy putty, press the magnet into it so the magnet's face sits flush with the base lip, and let it cure. This does two useful things at once: it closes the air gap and it bonds the magnet across its whole back face rather than a thin ring of glue. Green stuff, milliput or any similar modelling putty works.
One magnet or two?
One central magnet is enough for most infantry. Two becomes worthwhile when the model is top-heavy: a tall model with a heavy upper body pivots around a single central magnet if it is nudged, and once it starts to tip, the leverage peels the magnet off the steel.
Two magnets spaced apart resist that tipping motion because the model has to lift one magnet clear before it can rotate. Place them either side of the model's centre of gravity, along the axis it is most likely to topple on. For a model leaning forward, that means one magnet forward and one back.
Should the magnet touch the steel?
Ideally, yes, or as close to it as you can manage. Magnetic pull falls off sharply with distance, and even a small gap makes a noticeable difference. A magnet recessed 1mm above the steel can hold meaningfully less than the same magnet sitting flush.
In practice a tiny gap is unavoidable, because the base lip has to rest on something. Aim to get the magnet face level with the lip rather than sunk behind it. If you can feel the magnet with a fingertip when you run it across the underside, you are in the right area.
How strong should a base magnet be?
Strong enough that the model resists normal movement, and no stronger. The test is simple: tip the tray to about 45 degrees and give it a gentle shake. Nothing should move. Then pick a model up normally. It should come away without a struggle.
Overpowered base magnets cause their own problems. Models become awkward to lift out of a case, which means people grab the model by the body instead of the base, which is exactly how banners and weapon barrels get snapped. Maximum grip is not the objective.
Common problems and what causes them
| Problem | Usual cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Magnet pulls off the base | Contaminated surface, too little glue, or shear loading | Clean with isopropyl alcohol, use gel glue or epoxy putty, lift models rather than sliding them |
| Model is difficult to remove | Magnet is oversized for the job | Step down a size, or move to magnet-to-steel if you were using magnet-to-magnet |
| Model slides despite the magnet | Air gap too large, or receiving surface is weakly ferrous | Pack the recess so the magnet sits flush; test the surface with a loose magnet |
| Magnet sits too high, base rocks | Magnet thicker than the recess depth | Use a thinner magnet; measure with calipers before buying |
| Adhesive fails after a few weeks | Thin super glue on a smooth plastic surface | Scuff the recess floor lightly, use gel glue or epoxy |
| Receiving sheet is only weakly magnetic | Aluminium or non-ferrous stainless steel | Replace with proper steel sheet or steel paper |
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to magnetise every model in the army?
No, and it is often sensible not to. Start with the models that travel most and the ones that are most fragile. Bulk infantry that already sits stably in a tray may not need it at all.
Will magnets in the base affect the base size?
Not if the magnet sits inside the existing recess, which is the whole point of measuring the depth first. A magnet glued to the underside of a base rather than inside it effectively raises the model and can make it sit unevenly. Base diameter is unaffected either way; our guide to base sizes and how to measure them covers the dimension side.
Can I magnetise a base after the model is painted?
Yes. Base magnetising happens entirely on the underside, so there is no risk to the paintwork provided you keep glue off the top and avoid letting loose magnets snap against the model. Work over a soft surface in case you drop it.
What about models on flying stems?
The base magnet holds the base to the steel as normal, but the model on the stem adds a lot of leverage. These are strong candidates for two magnets rather than one, and for extra care during transport. Our guide to storing miniatures safely goes into transport considerations for awkward models.
Do magnets weaken over time?
Neodymium magnets lose very little strength in normal use. They can be permanently weakened by high heat, so avoid leaving magnetised models in a hot car or a loft in summer. Physical chipping is a more likely failure than gradual demagnetisation.
Independent guide published by Blubbercove Ltd/WarSplay. This article is not affiliated with, sponsored by, endorsed by, authorised by or licensed by Games Workshop Limited. Warhammer 40,000 is a trade mark of Games Workshop Limited.