Magnetising bases lets you store models in a steel-lined case, stop them sliding on a shelf and swap them between trays in seconds. The only tricky part is choosing a magnet that fits the hollow under the base and holds the model without rocking.
The short answer: use a 3 × 2 mm magnet for 25 mm bases, 3 × 2 mm to 5 × 2 mm for 28.5–32 mm bases, 5 × 2 mm for 40 mm bases, 6 × 2 mm (or two 5 × 2 mm) for 50 mm bases, and 8–10 mm magnets or several 5 × 2 mm magnets for 60 mm bases and larger. Always measure the depth of the recess under your base before ordering.
Magnet size chart for Warhammer bases
| Base size | Single magnet | Or use | Drill bit (if recessing) | Typical models |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 25 mm | 3 × 2 mm | 3 × 1 mm in a shallow recess | 3 mm | Small infantry |
| 28.5–32 mm | 3 × 2 mm or 5 × 2 mm | 5 × 1 mm | 3 mm / 5 mm | Standard infantry |
| 40 mm | 5 × 2 mm | Two 3 × 2 mm, spaced apart | 5 mm | Heavy infantry, characters |
| 50 mm | 6 × 2 mm | Two 5 × 2 mm | 6 mm | Large characters, small monsters |
| 60 mm | 8 × 2 mm | Two or three 5 × 2 mm | 8 mm | Walkers, monsters |
| 80–100 mm and ovals | 10 × 2–3 mm | Three or four 5 × 2 mm around the edge | 10 mm | Big monsters, cavalry, large resin |
The limiting factor is the depth of the hollow under the base, not its diameter. A magnet that sits proud of the underside makes the model rock, so it must sit flush or slightly below the rim.
How do I know which base size my model uses?
Measure across the underside of the base with a ruler or calipers. Round bases come in 25, 28.5, 32, 40, 50, 60, 80, 90, 100 and 130 mm, and ovals are listed as length × width, such as 60 × 35 mm, 75 × 42 mm or 90 × 52 mm. Older 25 mm models re-released on 28.5 or 32 mm bases are the most common mix-up, so measure rather than guessing from the model. For ovals, use two magnets spaced along the long axis. The full list is in our base sizes guide.
Magnet sizes for arms, weapons and vehicles
| Job | Magnet size | Drill bit |
|---|---|---|
| Infantry arms and shoulders | 1 × 1 mm or 2 × 1 mm | 1 mm / 2 mm |
| Infantry weapon swaps and backpacks | 2 × 1 mm | 2 mm |
| Character heads and helmets | 1 × 1 mm | 1 mm |
| Cavalry and 40–60 mm model joints | 3 × 1 mm | 3 mm |
| Monster and vehicle joints, turrets, wings | 3 × 2 mm or 5 × 2 mm | 3 mm / 5 mm |
For step-by-step methods, see magnetising arms and weapons and magnetising vehicles and tanks.
What size magnets do I need for 32 mm bases?
A 3 × 2 mm magnet is enough for most plastic infantry on 28.5 mm or 32 mm bases, glued into the centre of the hollow underneath. Go up to 5 × 2 mm for heavier or top-heavy models, or if you want a stronger grip on a steel tray.
What size magnets do I need for 40 mm bases?
A 5 × 2 mm magnet in the centre works well. For tall models that tip easily, two 3 × 2 mm magnets set apart from each other resist twisting better than one central magnet.
What size magnets do I need for 60 mm, 80 mm and larger bases?
Use one large magnet (8–10 mm) or spread three or four 5 × 2 mm magnets around the base. Spreading the magnets stops heavy models pivoting off a shelf or tray. See our guide to base sizes to check which base your model uses.
Does magnet diameter or thickness matter more?
Diameter does more of the work. Going from a 3 mm to a 5 mm disc at the same thickness gives a much bigger contact face and far more hold, while going thicker adds less. Choose a wider magnet first, then check the base recess is deep enough.
Should I use magnet-to-magnet or magnet-to-steel?
For bases, magnet-to-steel is usually best: put a magnet in the base and a steel sheet in your tray or case, and polarity never matters. Magnet-to-magnet gives a stronger hold and suits arms and weapon swaps, but you must keep polarity consistent.
At least one half of every pair must be a magnet: steel doesn't stick to steel. That gives three working combinations:
| Pairing | Hold | Polarity matters? | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Neodymium magnet + steel sheet | Strong | No | Bases in storage cases and trays |
| Neodymium magnet + neodymium magnet | Strongest | Yes | Arms, weapons, turrets |
| Flexible magnetic sheet + steel sheet | Light | No | Light infantry, quick fixes |
You can also do it the other way round: stick self-adhesive steel base bottoms under the models and line the case with flexible magnet sheet. That suits large collections where magnetising every base would cost too much. Iron-infused vinyl sheet works the same way as steel and is easier to cut. Metal and resin miniatures are heavier than plastic ones, so give them a neodymium magnet rather than flexible sheet.
Avoid pairing flexible magnetic sheet with more flexible sheet. The striped poles only line up in some positions, so models slide or jump.
Which magnet grade should I buy: N35 or N52?
For most bases, N35 to N42 is plenty. N52 gives more pull for its size, which helps with heavy models or very thin magnets, but it can make light models hard to lift off steel. Read N35 vs N52 explained, or see best magnets for miniature bases: sizes and grades for a short checklist that weighs disc size and grade together.
What drill bit should I use for miniature magnets?
Match the bit to the magnet diameter exactly, so a 3 mm magnet takes a 3 mm bit, and drill slightly deeper than the magnet is thick. Drill by hand with a pin vice; a powered tool can melt plastic and widen the hole.
How many magnets do I need?
One per base for most infantry, so around 10 for a squad, plus spares. If you also magnetise both arms, budget about four more per model. Buying packs of 100–200 of your main size avoids running out mid-project.
What glue should I use for magnets?
Superglue for small magnets in a snug recess, or two-part epoxy for large magnets and loose recesses. Scuff the magnet lightly first so the glue can grip. If magnets keep coming loose, see why magnets fall out of bases.
How do I keep magnet polarity consistent?
Mark the face of one "master" magnet with a pen and test every new magnet against it before gluing. Use the same orientation on every model so they all behave the same way.
How do I magnetise miniature bases?
There are two methods. The quick one is pre-cut magnet base bottoms, which are self-adhesive magnetic sheet cut to the base shape: you can do a whole army in an evening, but the hold is weak and it only grips steel. The stronger option is a rare-earth (neodymium) disc magnet glued into the base:
- Measure the base diameter and the depth of the hollow underneath, then pick a magnet from the chart above.
- Check polarity against your marked "master" magnet if the base will meet other magnets. For magnet-to-steel storage, polarity doesn't matter.
- Prepare the hollow. Glue the magnet straight into the centre, or fill the hollow with green stuff or a plastic plug first and press the magnet in flush for a stronger bond.
- Glue with superglue for a snug fit, or epoxy for a loose fit or a large magnet. Keep the magnet flush with or just below the rim.
- Test on a steel sheet once the glue has cured. The model should lift off cleanly without the magnet pulling out of the base.
Our step-by-step guide to magnetising bases covers each stage in more detail.
Can I use magnets with movement trays?
Yes. A steel-backed movement tray lets you move a whole unit at once without models sliding off. Glue a thin steel sheet, self-adhesive steel paper or a flexible magnet tray insert into the tray, and each base will grip it. Use a magnet insert if your bases have steel bottoms, or steel if they have magnets. For rank-and-flank units, a 3 × 2 mm magnet in a 25 mm square base is usually enough. Use 5 × 2 mm for 40 mm cavalry bases or anything top-heavy.
How do I store and transport a magnetised army?
Line a case, box or drawer with something the magnets can grip. Galvanised steel sheet holds best, but self-adhesive steel paper is lighter and cuts with scissors. Foam-tray cases are fine for fragile models, but a steel-lined toolbox or magnetic storage case packs more models into the same space. Then:
- Space models so arms, banners and spears don't touch when the case is tipped.
- Use bigger magnets for heavy models. Tanks, monsters and resin centrepieces need 8–10 mm magnets or several 5 × 2 mm magnets to stay put in a moving bag.
- Carry the case flat where you can. Magnets resist sliding well but can peel off if the case is shaken upside down.
- Keep spare magnets and glue in the case for quick repairs at the table.
Magnet-to-steel storage also works on open shelves. A steel strip under each shelf stops models being knocked off. If you'd rather not drill, flexible magnetic sheet on light infantry works on the same steel surfaces.
Are neodymium magnets safe?
Treat them with care. Swallowed magnets are dangerous, so keep loose magnets in a closed pot away from children and pets. Heat above roughly 80°C can weaken them permanently, so don't leave magnetised models in a hot car or sunny window.
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