A display stand looks like the simplest purchase in the hobby — it's a shelf for small models. Yet most collectors buy at least one stand that ends up unused: wrong base sizes, models hidden behind each other, glare washing out the paintwork, or a footprint that doesn't fit the shelf it was bought for. This guide covers the seven things that actually matter, in order of importance. (For context, WarSplay® stands are already on the shelves and in the cabinets of over a thousand wargamers, so the advice below is shaped by what has actually worked for real collections.)
1. Base size support — the dealbreaker
Every miniature sits on a base, and base diameter is the single specification that determines whether a stand works for your collection. As a rule of thumb for modern wargames:
| Base size | Typical models |
|---|---|
| 25mm | Older rank-and-file infantry, smaller skirmish models |
| 28mm–32mm | Standard modern infantry — the bulk of most collections |
| 40mm | Elite infantry, heavy troops, larger heroes |
| 50–60mm | Characters, monstrous infantry, small vehicles |
| 80–100mm+ | Monsters, large vehicles, centrepiece models |
Count what you actually own before buying. Most collections are 70–80% models on 28–32mm bases with a meaningful minority at 40mm and above — so a stand that tops out at 32mm will strand your best models. WarSplay® stands support 25mm–100mm bases across the range; our size guide shows which stand suits which mix.
2. Tiers and sightlines — why flat shelves fail
Models standing on a flat surface hide each other. From normal viewing height you see the front rank and a forest of heads behind it. Tiered stands solve this the way stadium seating does: each row is elevated above the one in front, so a 20-model squad reads as 20 visible models instead of 5. When comparing stands, look at the rise per tier (2–3cm per step is enough for infantry) and the tier depth (it must exceed your largest base diameter, or models overhang).
3. Finish — glare is the silent paint-killer
You spent hours on subtle highlights; a glossy stand bounces light straight past them. High-gloss surfaces (including clear acrylic) reflect light sources into the viewer's eye and visually flatten paintwork. A light-diffusing matte finish does the opposite — it softens reflections so the eye lands on the model, not the stand. This matters double if you photograph your models; our phone photography guide covers why matte backgrounds win.
4. Material — what stands are actually made of
- Acrylic — crystal clarity, premium look; but scratches easily, shows dust and fingerprints, and can crack under impact.
- MDF/wood — cheap and sturdy; usually needs self-assembly and paints/warps over time.
- Engineering polymers (3D-printed or injection-moulded) — impact-resistant, lightweight, consistent matte texture, no assembly. This is what WarSplay uses.
None is “best” universally — acrylic suits sealed single-model cases; polymer suits open tiered systems that get handled and reconfigured.
5. Footprint — measure the shelf first
The most common regret is a stand that doesn't fit its intended home. Measure the usable depth of your shelf (glass cabinet shelves are often just 30–40cm), the height to the shelf above, and remember tiers add height at the back. Stands sized for standard glass cabinets and common bookcase shelves remove the guesswork — see our guides to glass cabinet risers and bookcase displays.
6. Modularity — buy for the army you'll have next year
Collections grow. A fixed-size stand is full the day after you fill it; a modular system lets you add width, add tiers or reconfigure as squads expand. Check whether units lock together cleanly, whether you can buy matching extensions later, and whether mixed configurations (infantry rows plus a hero plinth) are possible.
7. Assembly and stability
Self-assembly acrylic kits with protective film on every panel are a 40-minute job and fingerprint magnets. Pre-assembled stands work out of the box. Also check for rubberised feet — they stop the stand sliding on glass shelves and protect furniture finishes.
Stand, case or shelf?
A stand maximises visibility; a sealed case maximises protection; a bare shelf maximises capacity and nothing else. We compare the first two honestly in acrylic display cases vs open stands — the short version is that many collectors use a case for one centrepiece and tiered stands for the rest.
Common buying mistakes
- Buying for your average base size instead of your full range.
- Ignoring tier depth — 40mm bases on 35mm tiers overhang.
- Choosing gloss because it photographs well in product listings — it's the worst finish for viewing painted models.
- Not checking dispatch times — made-to-order items can take weeks.
Frequently asked questions
What size display stand do I need for a squad of 10?
Ten models on 28–32mm bases fit comfortably on a two-to-three-tier stand around 20–25cm wide. Going modular means a second squad just needs a second stand alongside.
Will my larger hero models fit a standard stand?
Check the maximum supported base. WarSplay Classic suits 25–40mm bases, and Hero-format stands support selected larger bases up to around 80mm — our capacity guide has exact numbers.
Are these stands compatible with my game system?
Stands are system-agnostic — base size is all that matters. WarSplay® stands are compatible with Warhammer 40,000® miniatures, Age of Sigmar® miniatures and other popular 28mm–40mm tabletop systems. See the compatibility FAQ.
WarSplay® is an independent UK brand of Blubbercove Ltd. Trademarks are used for compatibility description only; see the disclaimer in our site footer.