Quick answer: use tufts if you want the fastest, cleanest result: peel a pre-made clump off the sheet with tweezers, press it on, and add a tiny dab of PVA if you want it permanent. Use loose static grass if you are basing lots of models or want patches shaped to your own base. Brush PVA only where you want grass, apply the fibres, ideally with an electrostatic applicator so they stand upright, then tap off the excess once dry. For 28–32 mm miniatures, 2–4 mm static grass is the length most painters use, and 6 mm is the usual all-round tuft height.
Grass is normally the last thing you add to a base, after the ground is textured, painted and dry. Done in the right order it takes a minute or two a model. Done in the wrong order, it discolours, falls off or ends up stuck to the miniature. This guide covers which material to pick, three ways to apply it, and how to fix the usual problems.
Static grass, tufts and flock: what is the difference?
| Material | What it is | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Static grass | Short nylon or polyester fibres, sold loose in tubs | Patches shaped to your base, whole armies, terrain | Lies flat unless you use an applicator or flip-and-tap method |
| Tufts | Pre-made clumps of static grass on a self-adhesive sheet | Quick, tidy bases; accents on large models | Fixed shapes and sizes, so less control over placement |
| Flock and turf | Fine ground foam sprinkled over glue | Low ground cover, moss and undergrowth texture | Can look like a carpet if used across the whole base |
LITKO's basing guide describes the same split: texture and sand for the groundwork, flock for low cover, static grass for upright grass, and tufts as "instant detail". Most good bases use two or three materials, not all of them.
Which length and tuft size to buy
Green Stuff World groups static grass by fibre length. Its guidance for miniature scales is:
- 1–2 mm: freshly cut or trampled grass, and very small scales.
- 2–4 mm: the most popular size for wargames and 28–32 mm miniatures.
- 4–6 mm: taller vegetation and light undergrowth, good for layering with shorter fibres.
- 9–12 mm: very tall grass and reeds on larger scenic bases and dioramas.
Tufts are sold by height in the same way. GamersGrass, one of the best-known tuft makers, sells 2 mm, 4–5 mm, 6 mm and 8–12 mm ranges, plus "alien" and "spikey" colours. Its 2 mm sheets carry around 115 tufts, and the UK retailer Colours of Warriors describes 6 mm as the most popular all-round size, at around 75 tufts a sheet.
A simple starter set for 25–32 mm bases is one tub of 2–4 mm static grass in a muted green, plus one sheet each of 2 mm and 6 mm tufts. That covers low ground cover, main clumps and the odd taller accent.
Before you add any grass
- Texture the base. Sand, fine grit or texture paste on PVA, left to dry fully.
- Paint the ground. Basecoat in an earth colour and drybrush a lighter shade over the texture.
- Let the paint dry completely. Model Railway Engineer warns that gluing grass over wet paint discolours it to a sun-dried brown.
- Keep the miniature out of the way. If the model is already glued on, work carefully around its feet. Some painters base separately and glue the model on last.
For full ground recipes, see our guides to basing miniatures step by step, desert bases and snow bases.
Method 1: tufts (the quickest)
- Lift a tuft off the sheet with tweezers. GamersGrass recommends tweezers for control.
- Press it into place on the painted, dry base.
- For a permanent fix, add a small dab of PVA or super glue under it first. LITKO notes that the adhesive backing holds, but a dab of PVA makes it permanent.
- Cluster two or three tufts of different heights rather than dotting them evenly around the rim.
Method 2: loose static grass without an applicator
- Brush a thin layer of PVA only where you want grass.
- Dip the base into the tub or sprinkle grass over it.
- Tap the base sharply on the side of the tub to knock off the excess.
- Turn the model upside down and tap again, or blow gently across the grass, to lift some fibres upright.
This is the quick method in hobby tutorials such as Brookhammer's. It works, but without an electrical charge more of the fibres lie flat, which is the problem applicators exist to solve (Model Railway Engineer).
Method 3: with an electrostatic applicator
An applicator charges the fibres as they pass through a metal mesh. Fibres with the same charge repel each other, so they don't clump, and land tip-first in the wet glue, where they set upright. Green Stuff World's method for a handheld applicator:
- Brush glue onto a small area only. Glue skins over quickly and stops holding fibres even while it still feels wet.
- Fill the applicator to about two-thirds. Overfilling stops fibres picking up a charge.
- Clip the lead to a conductive point near the wet glue, for example an opened metal paper clip pushed into the glue, or a metal sheet under a magnetised base.
- Hold the applicator roughly horizontal, 3–5 cm from the base, and shake gently. Don't hold it upside down over the base, or the grass simply falls flat.
- Work over a tray, tap off the excess and tip it back into the tub to reuse.
Makers don't all agree on the clip. War World Scenics says its clip is not an earthing lead and you don't need a pin in your model; it just needs to be close to the hopper. Follow the instructions for your own applicator.
Box-style applicators work the other way up: the base is held above a tray of fibres and the grass flies up to it. Green Stuff World and Model Railway Engineer both note that this is tidier and wastes less grass, which suits small miniature bases.
Worked example: grass recipes by base theme
Our suggestions for 25–32 mm bases, using the lengths above:
| Theme | Ground | Grass | Accent |
|---|---|---|---|
| Temperate meadow | Brown earth, light drybrush | 2–4 mm mid green static grass in one or two patches | One 6 mm green tuft |
| Autumn or late summer | Warm brown | 2–4 mm mixed with beige or straw fibres | One 6 mm dry or autumn tuft |
| Winter | Grey-brown, then snow effect | Sparse 2 mm dry tufts poking through | A winter-coloured tuft |
| Wasteland or ruins | Grey rubble and dark earth | 2 mm brown or burnt tufts in cracks only | None, or one small dry tuft |
| Alien world | Unusual ground colour, e.g. purple or ochre | Skip static grass | One brightly coloured "alien" tuft |
Colours of Warriors makes the same point about layering: low tufts as ground cover, a main size, and one taller accent, with some bare ground left showing. Grass in real life is never a single colour, which is why Green Stuff World recommends mixing shades of green with brown and straw fibres.
Fixing the usual problems
- Grass lies flat: the glue had started to skin over, or the applicator was too full or too far away. Use fresh glue on a small area and refill to two-thirds.
- Grass falls off later: Green Stuff World notes that PVA tends to release fibres gradually once dry; a dedicated flexible tuft or flocking glue holds better on handled models.
- Brown, discoloured grass: the paint underneath wasn't dry. Let the base dry fully before adding glue.
- Shiny glue showing: too much glue outside the grassed area. Brush it on thinly and only where you want grass.
- Grass on the model: base before gluing the miniature on, or mask the model's feet.
- Bases look uneven across a unit: pick one recipe and repeat it. It looks better than a different idea on every base.
Finish by painting the base rim. LITKO calls a clean rim colour the fastest thing that makes a base look finished. If the model will be handled a lot, a coat of matt varnish helps lock the basing down; see how to varnish miniatures.
Grass on display and on the move
Tall tufts and long grass stick out further than the base rim, and that matters once the models leave your desk. In foam trays, long fibres can catch on the foam as the model goes in and out; in a magnetic case, they can brush against the model next to them. Short 2–4 mm grass and 2–6 mm tufts are the practical choice for models you transport often. See how to transport miniatures safely for case options.
On a tiered display, put tall tufts towards the back of each base so they don't hide the model in front. The WarSplay Classic holds 17 miniatures on 25–32 mm round bases in a 20 cm × 11 cm footprint, so neighbours sit close together, and low grass keeps the row behind visible. For single heroes on larger bases, where a big 12 mm accent tuft has room, the WarSplay Hero Mini has four slots for bases up to 32 mm and one for up to 50 mm. See all modular miniature display stands.
Frequently asked questions
Should I use static grass or tufts?
Tufts if you want speed and no mess: peel, press, done. Loose static grass if you are basing a lot of models or want patches shaped to fit each base exactly.
What length of static grass is best for 28mm miniatures?
2–4 mm. Green Stuff World describes that range as the most popular for wargames and 28–32 mm miniatures. Add 4–6 mm fibres or 6 mm tufts in places for taller growth.
Do I need a static grass applicator?
No. Tufts need none, and loose grass can be applied by dipping, tapping and flipping the base. An applicator makes far more of the fibres stand upright, though, which looks more like real grass.
What glue should I use for static grass?
PVA is the usual choice: cheap, easy to clean up and dries clear. Green Stuff World notes that PVA gradually releases fibres once dry, so a flexible tuft or flocking glue is worth trying on models that get handled a lot.
How do I stop tufts falling off?
Put a small dab of PVA or super glue under each tuft rather than relying on the backing alone, press it onto a clean, dry, painted surface, and seal handled models with matt varnish.
Should I add grass before or after painting the miniature?
After. Paint the model and the ground first, let everything dry, then add grass. That way you aren't painting around fibres, and wet paint can't stain the grass.
Sources
- Green Stuff World: How to apply static grass (24 August 2026)
- LITKO: How to base a miniature: flock, tufts and static grass
- GamersGrass: tuft ranges and Dry Green 2 mm product page
- Colours of Warriors: tuft sizing and colour guide
- War World Scenics: How do static grass applicators work?
- Model Railway Engineer: Static grass bases for miniatures and What is a static grass applicator?
- Brookhammer: Quick grass bases
Checked against the sources above on 27 October 2026. Brand names belong to their respective owners.