How to Prepare Your Painted Miniatures for a Tournament or Competition

Months of work goes into a competition piece. Brush control, layering, edge highlights, NMM, freehand details — the kind of effort that wins regional painting awards. And then, on the day of judging, half of those pieces lose marks because of presentation. A chipped base, a wobble in transport, a lighting angle that doesn't show the highlights. This is the prep guide for the parts of competition entry that aren't actually painting.

Stage 1: Finish the base properly

The single most common competition presentation mistake is an unfinished base edge. The model is painted to a high standard, the basing texture is beautiful, and then the side of the base is grey plastic or smudged paint. Judges notice instantly.

Standard base finishing for competition entry:

• Sand or trim the base edge smooth. Remove any mould lines or texture overspill.
• Paint the base edge a clean colour. Most competition pieces go matte black, but a deep brown or contextual colour can also work depending on the model.
• Apply a thin coat of matte varnish to the base edge to protect it during transport.

Stage 2: Mount on a plinth or display stand

Most painting competitions, including high-profile events compatible with Warhammer® and Age of Sigmar® organised play, require or strongly encourage a plinth mount. The plinth lifts the model above the table surface, gives the judge a defined viewing angle, and signals that this entry is finished work.

For single-character entries, a small wooden plinth or a single-tier WarSplay Hero stand works well — both elevate the model and create a clean visual frame. For diorama or squad entries, a larger tiered base or a custom plinth that matches the basing scheme is preferable.

Stage 3: Varnish the model

Tournament transport will scuff unprotected paint. A coat of matte varnish (or a satin/gloss combination for armoured surfaces) protects against handling, abrasion, and the inevitable shoulder-knock during setup. See our guide on varnishing painted miniatures for the right product choices.

For competition specifically: matte varnish for skin, cloth, and most surfaces. Gloss varnish reserved for accents that should look wet — eyes, blood effects, gemstones. Apply varnish in light coats from 30cm away to avoid frosting.

Stage 4: Plan the transport

Competition pieces should not travel in a foam tray. Foam trays compress the highest points of the model (the very details you've been competing on), and removing the model from foam routinely chips edges and antennas. Use a magnetised transport solution where the model sits on a steel sheet via magnets in the base. Even a single 5mm × 2mm neodymium disc holds around 0.45kg (roughly 1 lb) of pull — far more than any model weighs — so the piece stays locked flat through every bump and shoulder-knock on the way to the table.

The magnetisation approach is covered in detail in our magnetisation and transport guide. For competition specifically, the workflow is:

• Magnetise the model base with neodymium magnets.
• Carry on a steel-lined transport case rather than foam.
• Transfer directly from case to plinth on the judging table. No intermediate handling.

Stage 5: Pre-judge the model yourself

Before competition day, set the model on its plinth under a daylight-balanced lamp and walk around it. Look for:

• Unfinished areas — under arms, behind backpacks, gaps under the chin. Judges check these on character pieces.
• Inconsistent highlights — areas where the light source you painted to doesn't match the rest of the model.
• Scuffs or chips from handling during finishing.
• Base edge cleanliness — the killer one.

Stage 6: Document the piece

Photograph the model professionally before competition day. Even if you don't win, a high-quality record of your work is portfolio material and useful for entering subsequent competitions. Our phone photography guide covers the basics.

On the day: judging table protocol

• Arrive early. Time to set up calmly without stress.
• Bring a microfibre cloth. Wipe down the plinth surface before setting the model. A speck of dust in the wrong place looks unprofessional.
• Position the model facing the typical judging angle. Usually the front-three-quarters view.
• Don't hover. Judges score better when they can examine the piece without the painter watching.

After the competition

Whether you placed or not, the prepped model is now a portfolio piece. Bring it back to permanent display on a WarSplay modular display stand in your collection cabinet. Competition-prepped models are typically your best work, and they deserve permanent prominent display rather than being returned to foam storage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to use a plinth for all competitions?

Check the specific competition rules. Most high-profile painting competitions require or strongly favour a plinth. Tabletop Best-Painted Army awards at tournaments typically don't require plinths but reward presentation.

Matte or gloss varnish for competition?

Matte for most surfaces. Selective gloss for wet effects, eyes, blood, gemstones. Avoid full gloss — it flattens the painted detail and creates judge-distracting reflections under lighting.

Can I add basing materials after varnishing?

Yes, and many painters do — applying tufts, static grass, or weathering effects after the varnish coat so those elements aren't sealed under matte. Use PVA or specialist glue and apply sparingly.

How do I prevent frosting when varnishing?

Varnish in low humidity (avoid rainy days), at room temperature, in light coats from 30cm away. Frosting is caused by moisture being trapped under the varnish layer.

What if I damage the model in transport?

Bring a small touch-up kit — the exact paints used on the model, a fine brush, and a small bottle of matte varnish. On-the-day repairs are normal at major competitions.