Quick answer: if you're not sure, use grey primer. It is light enough for most colours to look right and dark enough that recesses still read as shadow. Choose black for dark, grimy or metallic schemes and for drybrushing. Choose white (or a warm bone) for bright colours such as yellow, orange and red, and for transparent one-coat "speed" paints, which do very little over black. Zenithal priming, black all over and then white sprayed from above, gives you shading before you have painted anything.
Primer colour matters because most miniature paints are at least partly transparent, so the colour underneath changes how every coat looks. Here's how to choose for the model in front of you.
Black, grey, white and zenithal compared
| Black | Grey | White / bone | Zenithal (black + white) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shadows | Free: recesses stay dark | Partly free | None: you add them all | Free, with highlights too |
| Bright colours (yellow, red, orange) | Hard: several coats | Reasonable | Easy, often one coat | Good on upper surfaces |
| Metallics | Best | Good | Can look washed out | Good |
| One-coat speed paints | Barely show | Work over light grey | Work best | Work very well |
| Missed spots | Hidden as shadow | Fairly forgiving | Very obvious | Hidden underneath |
| Mould lines and gaps | Hidden until you basecoat | Visible, so you can fix them | Very visible | Visible on top surfaces |
| Best for | Dark armour, metal, drybrushing | First army, mixed schemes | Bright schemes, speed paints | Glazes, speed paints, display pieces |
The table brings together the guidance published by Sprue & Brush and The Mini Primer, which are listed in the sources below.
When to use black primer
Black is the forgiving choice. Any spot your brush misses just looks like a shadow, so black is quick for batch painting and kind to nervous beginners. It suits dark schemes, models that are mostly metal, and drybrushing, where the difference between dark recesses and light edges does most of the work. The downside is that bright colours struggle: The Mini Primer notes that red, yellow, orange and light blue all need more coats over black. Black also makes fine texture harder to see while you are painting.
When to use grey primer
Sprue & Brush calls grey the best default. It isn't the best at anything, but it isn't bad at anything either, which helps on a first army when you don't yet know which techniques you'll use. Grey also shows mould lines and gaps while you can still fix them, and washes behave predictably over it because the starting tone isn't extreme.
When to use white or bone primer
White makes colours bright. A single coat of most paints shows close to the colour on the pot, and blending is easier to judge. It is the right base for pale skin, cloth, pastels and other bright colours. The catch is that missed areas stand out and every shadow has to be painted in. Sprue & Brush suggests bone, a warm off-white, as often the better buy for skin, cloth and organic subjects, where pure white can look cold. White also shows overspray and frosting more clearly, so spraying conditions matter more.
What colour undercoat for red paint?
Use a light primer. Red is one of the colours The Mini Primer says struggles over black, and Sprue & Brush lists bright red alongside yellow and orange as colours that are hard work over black and cover in one coat over white. For a deep, slightly darker red, grey works well. For a bright, saturated red, use white or bone. A red coloured primer in the shade of your scheme also saves the basecoat. Sprue & Brush points out that coloured primers, such as The Army Painter Colour Primer range, cut out a painting step but commit you to that colour.
Zenithal priming: get both at once
Zenithal priming is a technique rather than a colour. "Zenith" means the point directly overhead, and the idea is to copy light falling from above. The Mini Primer's basic method is:
- Prime the whole model black (or dark grey) and let it dry fully.
- Hold the white or light grey spray, or an airbrush, roughly 30–45° above the model.
- Spray in short bursts from above so that raised surfaces turn light and recesses stay dark.
- Turn the model slightly to catch secondary high points, but keep the angle high.
Thinned paints, glazes and one-coat speed paints let that light-to-dark gradient show through, so you get shading without extra work. An airbrush gives the most control, but Sprue & Brush notes that two aerosol cans and a careful hand will do the job.
Worked examples: pick your primer in ten seconds
- Dark armour, gunmetal and rust: black, then drybrush and wash.
- Bright red or yellow armour: white, or a red or yellow coloured primer if every model uses the scheme.
- Mixed scheme on your first squad: grey.
- One-coat speed paints for a whole army: white or bone, or zenithal if you want stronger shading.
- Pale skin, bone or cloth on a character: bone or white.
- A display piece you plan to glaze: zenithal.
Whatever colour you pick: spray it properly
The Army Painter recommends spraying from about 15–20 cm in short, controlled passes and building up several thin coats ("thin to win") instead of one heavy coat that clogs detail. It gives the best conditions as 15–27 °C and 40–60% humidity. Below 15 °C, it says, primer won't dry properly and can go rough, above 27 °C it can dry powdery or grainy, and high humidity can leave it tacky. Clean the model first so there is no dust, grease or mould release on it, and let the primer dry for a few hours or overnight before you paint. For the full method, see our step-by-step priming guide. For how long each coat really takes, see how long miniature paint takes to dry. Priming resin prints? Do the wash and cure first, as explained in how to prep and paint 3D-printed resin miniatures.
After the primer: plan where the finished models go
A light primer and a bright scheme are easier to see on a shelf if each model has its own height. The WarSplay Classic Mini holds 8 miniatures on 25–32 mm round bases across five tiers, so the back row stays visible. For larger groups, browse our modular miniature display stands.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best primer colour for beginners?
Grey. Sprue & Brush recommends it as the default because it works reasonably with both light and dark schemes and shows mould lines while you can still fix them. Black is the most forgiving if you are worried about missed spots.
Is black or white primer better for miniatures?
Neither is better overall. Black suits dark, metallic and drybrushed schemes, and white suits bright colours and speed paints. If your scheme mixes both, use grey or zenithal.
Do speed paints work over black primer?
Barely. They are transparent and take their colour from the light surface underneath, so Sprue & Brush says they do almost nothing visible over black. Use white, bone, light grey or a zenithal base.
What colour primer should I use for red?
White or bone for a bright red, grey for a deeper red, or a red coloured primer to skip the basecoat. Avoid black unless you are happy to paint several coats.
Do I need an airbrush for zenithal priming?
No. An airbrush gives finer control, but a black spray followed by a white spray from above works.
Can I prime miniatures indoors?
The Army Painter recommends priming outdoors where possible. If you prime indoors, use a well-ventilated area, a mask and gloves, and a box to catch overspray, or switch to a brush-on primer.
Sources
- Sprue & Brush: Black vs white vs grey primer
- The Mini Primer: Black, white, grey or zenithal
- The Army Painter: How to use Colour Primers
- Model Railway Engineer: Black, grey or white primer
Checked against the sources above on 26 October 2026. Brand names belong to their respective owners.