Quick answer: for 28mm sci-fi wargames and skirmish games, start with a mix of line-of-sight blockers (tall ruins, walls, monoliths), low cover (barricades, craters, generators) and one or two objective centrepieces. Spread them so no fire lane crosses the whole table. A common starting point is covering roughly a quarter to a third of the table with terrain, then adjusting for the game you play.
Scatter terrain is the quickest way to make a bare board feel like a battlefield. Here is how to choose it, how much you need and how to set it up so games are fun, not just good-looking.
What counts as scatter terrain?
Scatter terrain is the smaller, freestanding scenery you place around larger buildings and features: barricades, crates, craters, pipes, rubble, obelisks, generators and alien growths. Unlike a big building, each piece is quick to move, so you can rearrange the whole table between games. In sci-fi settings it also tells the story of the table, whether that is an industrial outpost, a ruined city or an alien world.
The three jobs terrain does on the table
| Job | Examples | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Block line of sight | Tall walls, ruins, monoliths, crypts | Stops shooting armies from dominating every turn |
| Give cover | Barricades, craters, low walls, generators | Rewards movement and positioning |
| Mark objectives | Centrepiece structures, power cores, relics | Gives both players something to fight over |
A good table uses all three. If everything is short, long-range units win. If everything is tall, the game becomes a slow crawl between walls.
How much terrain does a 28mm table need?
Exact guidance depends on the game, and many rulebooks give their own recommendations, so check yours first. As a rule of thumb, aim for:
- Roughly a quarter to a third of the table covered by terrain pieces of some kind.
- At least a few tall pieces in the middle that fully block line of sight.
- No clear fire lane running from one deployment zone to the other.
- Gaps wide enough for your largest models to move through.
Skirmish games on smaller boards usually want denser terrain than large battles, because fewer models means each one needs more places to hide.
What to buy first
- A couple of tall line-of-sight blockers. These change the game more than anything else.
- A set of low cover pieces such as walls, craters or barricades.
- An objective centrepiece that gives the middle of the table a focus.
- Themed details last: these make the table look finished.
Our own sci-fi scatter is printed in our Northumberland workshop and arrives in single pieces, unpainted and ready to prime:
- Alien Crypt Terrain: a 116 × 116 × 130 mm crypt, four 130 mm obelisks and a small power generator. The crypt and obelisks are tall line-of-sight blockers; the generator is low cover or an objective.
- Alien scatter bundle, 6 pieces: three wall sections, a spiked crater, an arch and a capillary. A good mix of cover and mid-height blockers.
- Organic alien scatter bundle, 9 pieces: a cluster of capillary spires in four sizes, from 75 mm to 105 mm tall. Ideal for turning a plain board into an alien world.
How to lay out a sci-fi table that plays well
- Put the tallest pieces near the centre so both sides have to manoeuvre to see each other.
- Stagger cover in lines that zig-zag rather than straight walls across the board.
- Keep deployment zones fair: mirror the amount of cover on each side, even if the pieces differ.
- Cluster scatter into small groups so it reads as a location, not random clutter.
- Play a game and adjust. If one side won easily from range, add a blocker.
If you also display your painted army with the terrain, our guide on displaying miniatures and terrain together has ideas for vignettes and backdrops.
Painting sci-fi scatter quickly
Scatter terrain does not need display-level painting. A fast approach is to prime the pieces, add a base colour, apply a dark wash so it settles into recesses, then drybrush a lighter tone over the raised edges. Pick out a few details, such as glowing panels or alien growths, in a bright spot colour to tie the set together. Painting all your scatter in the same few colours makes the table look like one place.
Storing and transporting terrain
Terrain takes up more room than the armies that fight over it. Stack flat pieces with soft card or foam between them, and keep tall, thin pieces upright in a box with dividers so they do not snap. See our guides on how to store tabletop terrain and how to transport terrain to a club or event.
Frequently asked questions
What is 28mm scatter terrain?
Small, freestanding scenery for 28mm-scale tabletop games, such as walls, craters, barricades, obelisks and objectives. It sits around larger buildings and can be rearranged between games.
How much terrain should a wargaming table have?
Check your game's own guidance first. As a rule of thumb, cover roughly a quarter to a third of the table, include several tall pieces that block line of sight, and avoid any clear fire lane between deployment zones.
Does 28mm terrain work with 32mm miniatures?
Generally yes. 28mm and 32mm miniatures are close enough in scale that most scatter terrain works for both, though doors and windows on buildings may look slightly small next to larger models.
Does your sci-fi terrain need assembling?
No. Our sci-fi scatter pieces are printed as single parts, so there is nothing to assemble. They arrive unpainted in grey, ready to prime and paint.
What should I buy first for a sci-fi table?
Start with two or three tall line-of-sight blockers, then add low cover and one objective centrepiece. Decorative details come last.