The models you spend the longest painting are almost always the biggest — heroes, elites, monsters and vehicles on 40mm bases and upwards. They're also the models most display setups fail. Tiers are too shallow, cabinet shelves are too close together, and the big model ends up at the back of a flat shelf, blocking everything behind it. This guide fixes that.
Know your base sizes
Large-model display starts with one measurement: base diameter. Across popular 28mm–40mm tabletop systems, the breakdown is roughly:
| Base | Typical models | Display considerations |
|---|---|---|
| 40mm | Elite infantry, heavy troops, lieutenants | Needs deeper tiers than standard infantry; often forgotten by stand makers |
| 50mm | Characters, jump troops, small walkers | Taller models — check clearance to the shelf above |
| 60–80mm | Monstrous infantry, large heroes, bikes/cavalry (oval) | Weight starts to matter; needs a stable, grippy platform |
| 90–100mm+ | Monsters, vehicles, centrepieces | Usually best on its own plinth or front-and-centre floor position |
The 40mm tier is the one that catches people out. Many collections have quietly shifted toward 40mm as elite units have grown more popular, while plenty of display products still assume everything sits on 28–32mm. Count your 40mm models before buying anything — you probably have more than you think.
The three failure modes — and the fix for each
1. Overhang
A 40mm base on a 35mm-deep tier hangs over the edge — wobbly, ugly and one nudge from a 15-hour paint job hitting the floor. Fix: tier depth must exceed your largest base on that row. On modular systems, give big bases their own row rather than squeezing them between infantry.
2. Headroom
Large models are tall — wings, banners and raised weapons add height fast. In glass cabinets, the gap between shelves is often fixed at 25–30cm. Fix: measure your tallest model including base, then add 2–3cm. In adjustable bookcases, dedicate one taller shelf to big models; our bookcase display guide covers shelf planning.
3. Blocking
One monster at the front of a flat shelf hides a dozen infantry behind it. Fix: big models go at the back on the highest tier, or off to the flank — the classic museum layout. Tiered elevation means even an 80mm centrepiece at the rear stays fully visible above the front ranks.
Mixing scales on one display
The most striking army displays combine scales deliberately rather than segregating them:
- Pyramid layout: centrepiece at top rear, elites on middle tiers, troops at the front. The eye reads it as one force.
- Bookend layout: two large models flanking ranked infantry — great for symmetrical cabinets.
- Hero plinth: one model elevated alone next to the squad stands. Isolation reads as importance — it's why museums put one statue on one plinth.
Spacing rule of thumb: leave half a base-width between models on the same tier. Cramming reduces every model to texture; spacing turns each into an exhibit.
Weight, grip and safety
Big resin and plastic kits are heavier than they look, and top-heavy with it. Three checks: the platform should be rigid (no flex when loaded), grippy (rubberised feet so the stand doesn't slide on glass), and matte (diffused light flatters big flat surfaces like wings and armour panels — gloss turns them into mirrors). If you move displays often, magnetising bases is the single best upgrade — even a 5mm × 2mm neodymium disc holds around 0.45kg (roughly 1 lb) of pull, and you simply scale up to a larger disc for a heavy centrepiece, so nothing slides or topples. See our magnet size guide for 25mm–80mm bases.
What fits on WarSplay® stands
WarSplay Classic is designed for 25mm–40mm bases — including a full row of 40mm elites. Hero-format stands support selected larger bases up to around 80mm, and the modular system means a Hero unit can sit alongside Classic rows in one combined display. The range is compatible with Warhammer 40,000® miniatures, Age of Sigmar® miniatures and other popular 28mm–40mm tabletop systems — see the compatibility FAQ and size guide for exact fits.
Frequently asked questions
How do I display a model with a 100mm or oval base?
Treat it as a centrepiece: rear-top position on a tiered display, or its own plinth. Oval bases need depth more than width — measure the short axis against your tier depth.
Should large models go in a sealed case instead?
If it's a competition piece you'll never rebase, a fitted acrylic case is a fair choice — we compare the options in cases vs open stands. For gaming pieces you handle regularly, open tiered display is more practical.
How do I keep big models dust-free on open display?
A soft brush every few weeks, satin varnish for protection, and ideally a standard glass cabinet around the whole display — our dust care guide covers the full routine.
WarSplay® is an independent UK brand of Blubbercove Ltd. Trademarks are used for compatibility description only; see the disclaimer in our site footer.