Stripping paint is the reset button of the hobby. Whether you've bought a second-hand army under thick, gloopy paint or you've simply changed your mind about a colour scheme, a proper strip takes a Warhammer 40,000 miniature back to clean plastic, resin or metal so you can start again.
The short answer: soak plastic and most resin models in high-strength isopropyl alcohol, then scrub the softened paint away with an old toothbrush. Metal models tolerate stronger solvents. This guide covers soak times, stubborn primer and the mistakes that ruin models.
What is the best way to strip paint from Warhammer 40,000 miniatures?
For most models, a soak in isopropyl alcohol of 90% strength or higher is the safest effective method. It softens acrylic paint and primer without melting polystyrene. Once the paint has softened, it brushes off with a stiff toothbrush.
Is isopropyl alcohol safe for plastic miniatures?
Yes. High-strength isopropyl alcohol is widely used on polystyrene kits and doesn't dissolve the plastic. It can weaken superglue joints, so expect some parts to come apart during the soak, and test on a spare sprue offcut first if you're unsure what a model is made from.
What should I never use on plastic models?
Never use acetone, nail varnish remover or cellulose thinners on polystyrene, because they melt it. Steer clear of brake fluid and oven cleaner as well: they're harsh, hazardous to handle and unnecessary when gentler options work. If a product's label warns against use on plastics, believe it.
How do I strip resin miniatures?
Most resin models respond well to the same isopropyl alcohol soak used for plastic. Resin formulations vary, though, so test a hidden area first and check the surface hasn't gone tacky or cloudy. Keep soaks short and check every 30 minutes rather than leaving resin overnight.
How do I strip metal miniatures?
Metal models are the most forgiving because nothing you'd use will melt them. Isopropyl alcohol works well, and stronger solvents such as acetone are an option for stubborn layers if you work outdoors or in a well-ventilated room. Remove any plastic or resin parts before using anything stronger than alcohol.
How long should I soak a miniature?
Start with 30 minutes to an hour, then test a small area with a brush. Thick or old paint jobs can take several hours, and leaving plastic models in isopropyl alcohol overnight is common practice. If the paint isn't softening at all, the alcohol is usually too weak rather than the soak too short.
What's the step-by-step process?
Work in a ventilated room, wear gloves and keep the container lidded while the models soak.
- Remove the model from its base if you can, and take off any parts held by tack or magnets.
- Submerge the model fully in a lidded glass jar or solvent-safe container.
- Soak for 30–60 minutes, then test-scrub a small area.
- Scrub with a stiff toothbrush, using a cocktail stick to clear recesses.
- Soak stubborn areas again, then rinse the model in warm, soapy water.
- Leave it to dry completely, ideally overnight, before priming.
How do I get paint out of deep recesses?
A second short soak followed by a firmer brush usually shifts the last traces. Wooden cocktail sticks reach tight spots without scratching plastic. If you strip models regularly, an ultrasonic cleaner speeds the whole job up considerably.
Do I need to remove every bit of old paint?
No. Faint staining that doesn't fill detail won't show under fresh primer. What matters is removing anything that softens detail or leaves a raised edge, because that will show through the new paint job.
Why won't my primer come off?
Some spray primers bond far more stubbornly than acrylic paint, and the enamels found on older second-hand models can resist alcohol altogether. Extend the soak, use the strongest isopropyl alcohol you can get, and accept a thin, smooth layer of primer where it isn't hiding detail. On metal models, a stronger solvent is the fallback.
Can I strip just part of a model?
Yes. Dab isopropyl alcohol onto the area with an old brush, leave it for a few minutes, then scrub gently. It's handy for a botched face or weapon, but the edges are hard to keep neat, so plan to repaint the surrounding area too.
Will stripping damage the detail on my model?
Not if you use the right solvent and a sensible brush. Damage usually comes from impatience: scraping with a knife or using a brass or wire brush on plastic. Stick to stiff nylon toothbrushes and wooden cocktail sticks, and let a longer soak do the work instead.
How do I strip a model that's been varnished?
Varnish slows everything down because the alcohol has to get through it before it reaches the paint. Expect longer soaks and a second round of scrubbing. Gloss varnish tends to be more stubborn than matt.
Is it worth stripping a second-hand army?
Usually, yes. Second-hand models are often far cheaper than new ones, and a few hours of soaking turns a thickly painted lot into clean kits ready for your own scheme. Check what you're buying first: metal and resin pieces need a different approach from plastic, and a model that's already well painted may be worth keeping as it is.
Can I reuse the stripping liquid?
Isopropyl alcohol can be reused several times if you let the paint sludge settle and pour the clear liquid off into a sealed container. It's highly flammable, so store it away from heat and naked flames. Never pour paint sludge down the sink; let it dry out and dispose of it in line with your local council's guidance.
What should I do after stripping?
Re-glue any parts that came loose, check for mould lines you missed the first time, and wash the model to remove residue. Then prime as normal. Our guides to removing mould lines and priming properly cover the next steps, and our guide to fixing painting mistakes covers smaller repairs that don't need a full strip.
More hobby guides
- How to Fix Painting Mistakes on Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures
- How to Remove Mould Lines from Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures
- How to Prime Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures Properly
- How to Paint Your First Warhammer 40,000 Miniature: Beginner Guide
- Warhammer 40,000 Hobby Guides & Free Tools
Warhammer 40,000® is a registered trade mark of Games Workshop Limited. This is an independent hobby guide and is not affiliated with, endorsed or sponsored by Games Workshop.