Is N52 worth it for miniatures?

Not for infantry arms, where an N35 magnet already holds firmly enough that the glue joint or the plastic fails first. N52 earns its price when the socket is too small to fit a wider magnet. If there is room for a bigger disc, a larger N35 will out-hold a smaller N52 for less money.

How much pull force do miniature magnets need?

Quoted pull force is measured against thick steel under laboratory conditions, so expect roughly a third to a half of it in practice once paint and glue are between the faces. A 2x1mm pair holds a plastic infantry arm, a 3x2mm pair holds a heavy resin arm, and a 5x2mm pair holds a turret or wing.

Which Magnet Grade Do You Need for Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures? N35 vs N52

Q: Can a magnet be too strong for a miniature?

Yes. On slim wrist or ankle joints an overpowered magnet means the plastic gives way before the magnetic bond does, so the part snaps instead of popping off. Over-strong magnets can also chip paint on the mating faces when they snap together.

August 30, 2026

Search for miniature magnets and every listing shouts a number: N35, N42, N45, N50, N52. The number is real, it is standardised, and for most hobby work it matters far less than the size you chose. Here is what it actually means and when it is worth paying for.

What does the N number on a magnet mean?

The N-grade is the maximum energy product of the neodymium alloy — effectively how much magnetic force is packed into a given volume. N52 is the strongest grade in normal commercial production; N35 is the common budget grade. Same size, higher grade, stronger pull: an N52 disc holds roughly 45–50% more than an N35 disc of identical dimensions.

Is N52 worth it for Warhammer 40,000 miniatures?

For infantry arms, no. A 2x1mm N35 magnet already holds a plastic arm firmly enough that the model can be handled, and the failure point stops being the magnet and becomes the glue joint or the plastic itself. For heavy resin arms, monster wings, vehicle turrets and anything you want to hold at an angle against gravity, the jump to N45–N52 is worth it — that is where grade buys real capability rather than a bigger number on the packet.

Grade comparison for hobby use

Grade	Relative pull	Best for	Verdict
N35	Baseline	Infantry arms, weapon swaps, heads, bases to steel	Perfectly adequate and usually cheapest per 100
N42	~20% stronger	Cavalry, mid-weight resin, larger weapon options	The sensible default if buying one grade
N45–N50	~30–40% stronger	Monster limbs, wings, turrets, angled joints	Worth it where gravity is fighting you
N52	~45–50% stronger	Heavy resin, very small magnets in tight sockets	Buy it for tiny magnets, not for big ones

That last row is the useful insight: N52 earns its price when the socket is so small that you cannot use a bigger magnet. If you have room for a wider disc, a bigger N35 will out-hold a smaller N52 and cost less. Our guide to magnet sizes by joint covers where that trade-off falls.

How much pull force do you actually need?

Manufacturer pull-force figures are measured magnet-to-thick-steel-plate under laboratory conditions, and you will never see those numbers on a model. Real-world hold is reduced by the paint film between the faces, any glue that has crept onto the mating surface, and imperfect flatness where the joint sits. Assume you will get somewhere between a third and a half of the quoted figure.

As a rule of thumb: a single 2x1mm magnet pair holds a plastic infantry arm; a 3x2mm pair holds a heavy resin arm; a 5x2mm pair holds a vehicle turret or a wing. If you find yourself needing more than that, the joint design is the problem, not the magnet.

Does grade matter for base magnets?

Less than people expect. A base magnet is usually working against a plain steel surface rather than a second magnet, and the thing that limits its hold is almost always the air gap created by the recess under the base, not the grade of the alloy. Closing that gap by seating the magnet flush will do far more than upgrading from N35 to N52. Our step-by-step guide to magnetising miniature bases covers measuring recess depth and packing it out.

Can a magnet be too strong for a miniature?

Yes, and this is the failure nobody warns you about. An overpowered magnet on a slim wrist or ankle joint means the plastic gives way before the magnetic bond does — so instead of the arm popping off cleanly, the arm snaps. Over-strong magnets also snap together hard enough to chip paint on the mating faces, and can pull adjacent magnets out of alignment on a model with several close together.

What else matters besides the grade?

Plating. Nickel-copper-nickel is standard and the right choice. Bare or poorly plated neodymium corrodes, and a corroded magnet swells slightly and stops seating flush.
Dimensional tolerance. Cheap bulk magnets vary by up to 0.1mm. That is invisible in a pack and infuriating when a 3mm magnet will not enter a 3mm hole. Buy from a supplier that states a tolerance.
Temperature rating. Standard N-grade magnets begin to lose strength permanently above roughly 80°C — a real risk in a car boot in summer or a loft.
Consistent polarity marking. A supplier who ships magnets in a stack with one end marked will save you an hour of frustration per project.

Are neodymium magnets safe around children and pets?

Treat them as a hazard, not a novelty. Swallowing two or more neodymium magnets can cause serious internal injury as they attract through the wall of the gut, so keep loose magnets in a sealed pot, work over a tray, and account for any you drop.

What we use in our own workshop

For our test models we default to N42 in 2x1mm and 3x2mm, stepping to N52 only where the socket forces a 1x1mm magnet. It covers roughly nine jobs in ten without keeping a spreadsheet of grades. If you are buying your first batch, that is the pairing we would start from.

Independent guide published by Blubbercove Ltd/WarSplay. This article is not affiliated with, sponsored by, endorsed by, authorised by or licensed by Games Workshop Limited. Warhammer 40,000 is a trade mark of Games Workshop Limited.