Quick answer: for puddles and wet mud, paint and seal the hollow first, then add a self-levelling water product in thin layers, about 1 to 2mm at a time, letting each layer cure clear before the next. For deeper ponds and rivers, build a watertight dam around the base and pour two-part epoxy resin slowly, in layers if it is deep. Add ripples last with a thicker water gel or gloss medium. Most failures come from pouring too deep in one go.
Water is one of the most striking things you can put on a base, and one of the easiest to get wrong. The products behave differently, the curing times are long, and a pour that is too deep can stay soft for weeks or crack as it shrinks. This guide covers which product to use for which job, how deep each layer can be, and a step-by-step method for the most common job: a puddle on an infantry base.
Which water product should you use?
| Product type | Best for | Layer depth | Things to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gloss varnish or gloss medium | Wet mud, damp stone, a sheen on a thin film of water | A brushed coat | The quickest option; no depth, just shine |
| Water-based self-levelling gel (for example, Vallejo Still Water) | Puddles and shallow standing water | Thin layers, no more than about 2mm each | Can be tinted with thin airbrush paint or washes; deep pours stay soft and can shrink and crack |
| Pourable scenery water (for example, Woodland Scenics Realistic Water) | Shallow pools on bases and terrain | Layers of 1/8 inch (about 3mm), up to 1/2 inch (about 12mm) in total | Cure each layer until glass-clear (24 hours minimum); no heat, no top sealer; not for use with PVA glue; does not cure hard |
| Two-part epoxy resin | Deep ponds, rivers, display bases | As the maker instructs; thin layers for deep pours | Needs a watertight dam, careful measuring and protective gear; clear, glass-like finish |
| UV resin | Small, shallow puddles and wet patches | Thin layers, cured with a UV lamp | Quick, but only practical for small areas |
| Thick water gel or acrylic gel medium | Ripples, waves, splashes and waterfalls | Applied on top of cured water | Shaped with a cocktail stick or brush; foam is drybrushed white afterwards |
Before you pour: prepare the base
- Decide where the water goes. Water collects in the lowest point, so plan a hollow, a rut or a channel when you texture the base, not afterwards.
- Seal everything. Sand, cork and plaster are porous and will soak up the water product or release air bubbles into it. Prime or paint the hollow and let it dry fully.
- Paint the bottom darker than you think. Water looks darker as it gets deeper, so paint the deepest part of the hollow darkest and lighten towards the edges. One basing guide notes that a drop or two of ink in resin goes a long way.
- Glue the miniature first, or plan to. If feet or rocks stand in the water, fix them before you pour so the water flows around them.
- Work level. Rest the base on a flat surface so the water finds a natural level rather than a slope.
Step-by-step: a puddle on an infantry base
- Texture the base with sand or texture paste, leaving one or two shallow dips for puddles.
- Paint the ground as normal, then paint the dips in dark brown or dark green-brown, darkest in the middle.
- Add the first layer of self-levelling water product with an old brush or cocktail stick, only 1 to 2mm deep. Vallejo's own step-by-step guide pours it in thin layers no more than 2mm deep.
- Tint it if you want muddy water. Mix a tiny amount of a green-brown wash or thin airbrush paint into the water product before you apply it.
- Let it cure fully. Leave it until it is completely clear and hard, not just skinned over. In cold weather this can take several days per layer, so be patient.
- Add more layers only if you need more depth, curing each one fully.
- Add ripples where a foot or rock meets the water with a dab of thicker water gel, pulled into rings with a cocktail stick.
- Finish around the edge with gloss varnish on the surrounding mud, so the transition from wet to dry looks natural, and add tufts or grass at the bank.
Deeper water: ponds and rivers with epoxy resin
- Build a dam. Wrap clear plastic card or a strip of acetate tightly around the base edge, held with plenty of tape. Seal any gaps with hot glue: resin finds every gap.
- Protect yourself and your desk. Wear gloves and eye protection, work in a ventilated room and put the base on something you can throw away.
- Measure exactly. Follow the maker's mixing ratio, using separate syringes or cups for each part.
- Stir slowly for several minutes, scraping the sides, to avoid whipping in air. Let it stand for a few minutes so large bubbles rise.
- Pour slowly into the centre and let it find its level. For deep water, pour in thin layers and let each cure before the next, to avoid overheating and bubbles.
- Pop bubbles with a cocktail stick, or move them with a gentle stream of warm air from a hairdryer held well back.
- Cover and wait. Put a box over the base to keep dust off while it cures, then peel off the dam.
Common water-effect problems and fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Still soft or cloudy after days | Layer too deep, or cold room | Leave it longer somewhere warm; next time use thinner layers |
| Shrunk, sunk or cracked | Too much poured at once | Add a thin top-up layer once cured |
| Bubbles in the water | Porous base not sealed, or stirred too fast | Seal the base first; stir slowly; pop bubbles while still liquid |
| Water ran off the base | No dam, or a gap in the dam | Use a taped and hot-glued dam; work on a level surface |
| Looks like clear plastic, not water | Bottom painted too light | Darken the bottom before pouring; tint the first layer |
| Dust or fibres stuck in the surface | Left uncovered while curing | Cover while curing; sand and add a thin new layer |
Displaying and storing water bases
Water bases need a little care once finished. Woodland Scenics warns that Realistic Water does not cure to a hard surface, that items placed on top will stick to it permanently, and that finished models should not be stored vertically. Whatever product you use, let it cure completely before the model goes into a case, onto a tray or into a display, and keep it flat.
A tiered stand keeps every base flat and level and stops models rubbing against each other. The WarSplay Classic holds 17 miniatures on 25mm to 32mm round bases, and the WarSplay Hero holds 9 larger models, including one 80mm slot, which suits a monster standing in a pond. Miniatures are not included. Check your base sizes first with our guide on how to measure a miniature base.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best water effect for miniature bases?
For small puddles, a water-based self-levelling gel applied in thin layers. For deep ponds and rivers, two-part epoxy resin with a dam. For a simple wet look, gloss varnish.
How deep can I pour water effects on a base?
Keep each layer thin: Vallejo's guide uses layers no more than 2mm deep, and Woodland Scenics says 1/8 inch (about 3mm) per layer, up to 1/2 inch in total. Cure each layer fully before the next.
How long do water effects take to dry?
At least 24 hours per layer, and often several days in a cold room. Wait until each layer is completely clear and firm, not just skinned over.
Can I use PVA glue under water effects?
Not under Woodland Scenics Realistic Water, which its instructions say is not for use with PVA glue. Seal the base with paint or primer instead.
How do I colour water on a base?
Paint the bottom of the hollow darker in the middle, and tint the first layer with a tiny amount of ink, wash or thin paint. Too much tint makes the water opaque.
How do I make ripples and waves?
Once the main water has cured, apply a thicker water gel or acrylic gel medium and shape it with a cocktail stick or brush. Drybrush the crests white for foam.
Sources
- Vallejo: Mud and Puddles set step-by-step guide (Still Water, tinting, layers no more than 2mm)
- Woodland Scenics: Realistic Water instructions (layer depth, curing, PVA, storage)
- Pablo El Marqués: Still Water tutorial (Spanish; very thin 1mm layers, cure times)
- Massive Voodoo: Proper use of two-component water effects (dams, safety, mixing)
- Rapid Fire Wargaming: Creating water bases using epoxy resin
- Artifex Fabricatum: Crafting water effects (epoxy, UV resin, gloss varnish, gels)
Sources checked 29 October 2026. Stand details from the live product pages on the same date.