A transfer that looks perfect on a flat tank panel can turn into a crumpled mess on a rounded shoulder pad. Curved and detailed surfaces need the film to stretch and shrink at the same time, which it cannot do without help. This guide covers the techniques that make markings mould onto domes, rims and ribbed armour.
The short answer: gloss the area, choose the flattest part of the curve, make small relief cuts in the film if it is large, place it over setting solution, then brush softener on top and leave it completely alone until dry. Repeat light coats of softener until the film has pulled into every edge, then seal.
If you are new to transfers, start with our step-by-step guide to applying transfers first, then come back here for the tricky surfaces.
Why do transfers wrinkle on curved surfaces?
A flat piece of film laid over a dome has more material than the surface needs around its edge. Without help it either bridges across with air underneath or creases into folds. Softener temporarily relaxes the film so it can shrink into shape and stay put as it dries.
Where should you place a transfer on a rounded shoulder pad?
Aim for the flattest, most central part of the curve and avoid letting the design run over a raised rim. Small symbols are far more forgiving than large ones, so on heavily curved pads use the smallest version on the sheet. If a design must cross a rim, cut it into two pieces and apply each side separately.
What are relief cuts and when should you make them?
Relief cuts are tiny slits made with a fresh blade from the edge of the film towards the printed design, much like the cuts in pastry for a pie dish. They let large transfers fold around compound curves without bunching. Make them in clear film or along natural lines in the design, never through fine detail.
How do you use softener without ruining the transfer?
Position the transfer, draw out the water, then flood a small amount of softener over it with a soft brush. The film will wrinkle and look ruined within seconds; that is the softener working. Do not touch it, prod it or blot it at this stage, because the film is fragile and will tear or smear.
| Surface | Difficulty | Best approach |
|---|---|---|
| Flat vehicle panel | Easy | Setting solution only; softener rarely needed |
| Gently curved armour plate | Moderate | Setting solution plus one or two coats of softener |
| Domed shoulder pad | Hard | Small design, centred, several thin softener coats |
| Ribbed or riveted panel | Hard | Softener, then press gently into recesses once dry-ish |
| Banner or cloth folds | Very hard | Relief cuts or split the design; consider painting instead |
How many coats of softener do you need?
On a gentle curve one coat is often enough. On a pronounced dome or over rivets you may need several thin coats, letting each one settle for ten minutes or so before the next. Stop once the film has pulled tight into every edge and recess.
How do you get a transfer into recesses and over rivets?
Once the softener has started to relax the film but before it dries, very gently press a damp cotton bud or soft brush into the recess. Then leave it. If a bubble remains over a rivet after drying, prick it with a pin and add one more touch of softener.
What if the transfer creases?
Small creases often flatten as the softener dries, so wait before reacting. If a fold is still there once dry, a further coat of softener usually relaxes it. A fold that has stuck flat on top of itself is best touched in with paint later, or removed and replaced.
When is it easier to paint the symbol instead?
On deeply sculpted cloth, crowded detail or tiny curved parts, a transfer may fight you more than it helps. In those places, painting a simple symbol or numeral by hand, or painting over a transfer you have used as a guide, can be quicker and look more natural. Keep transfers for clean, readable armour panels.
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Related reading
- How to Apply Transfers (Waterslide Decals) to Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures
- How to Fix Silvering and Damaged Transfers on Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures
- How to Varnish Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures (Spray vs Brush-On)
- How to Paint Realistic Rust on Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures
- How to Edge Highlight Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures