How to Apply Transfers (Waterslide Decals) to Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures

October 13, 2026

Transfers are the quickest way to add squad markings, numerals and heraldry that would take hours to paint freehand. They are also where a lot of otherwise tidy miniatures go wrong: a shiny rectangle of film, a symbol that tears in half, or a silvery haze that never goes away. The good news is that almost every transfer problem comes from the surface underneath, not from the transfer itself.

The short answer: paint the area, brush on a thin gloss varnish and let it dry, soak the transfer in lukewarm water for 20–40 seconds, slide it into place over a drop of setting solution, blot the water away, add softener if the surface is curved, leave it to dry fully, then seal with gloss followed by matt varnish.

What is a waterslide transfer?

A waterslide transfer is a printed image sitting on a very thin clear film, held to a backing paper by a water-soluble glue. When you soak it, the glue releases and the film slides off the paper onto the model. Most miniature kits that include markings use this type, and the same method works for aftermarket sheets.

Why do you need a gloss surface first?

Matt paint looks smooth but is microscopically rough, so the film bridges across tiny peaks and traps air underneath. That trapped air is what shows as silvering. A thin brushed or sprayed gloss varnish fills the texture so the film can sit in full contact, and it also lets you slide the transfer around while you position it.

What do you need?

A pair of sharp scissors or a fresh hobby blade, tweezers, a small dish of lukewarm water, a soft brush you only use for transfers, kitchen roll or a cotton bud, gloss varnish, matt varnish, and ideally a decal setting solution and a decal softener. You can apply transfers with water alone, but the two solutions make the difference between good and invisible.

How do you cut and soak a transfer?

Cut as close to the printed edge as you can, because every millimetre of spare film is a millimetre that might show. Dip it in lukewarm water, not hot, for around 20–40 seconds, then lift it out onto a tile or a damp piece of kitchen roll. When it slides freely on the backing paper with a nudge of the brush, it is ready.

How do you get it onto the model?

Brush a small drop of setting solution (or plain water) where the transfer will go. Hold the backing paper right against the model and slide the transfer off with a damp brush rather than picking the film up with tweezers. Nudge it into position while it is still wet, then roll a cotton bud gently over it or touch the edge with kitchen roll to draw the water out from underneath.

Setting solution vs softener: what is the difference?

They do different jobs, and many painters use both. Setting solution goes on before or under the transfer and improves adhesion; softener goes on top once it is placed and makes the film supple enough to conform to detail.

Product	When to use it	What it does	Watch out for
Plain water	Flat panels, large tanks	Lets the transfer slide into place	Weakest adhesion; more likely to silver
Setting solution	Under the transfer, every time	Improves grip and helps the film settle	Wipe excess off the paint around the edge
Softener	On top, on curved or detailed areas	Relaxes the film so it moulds into detail	Do not touch it while it is working
Gloss varnish (after)	Once fully dry	Seals the edge and blends the film	Needs a matt coat after to hide the shine

How long should transfers dry before sealing?

Give them at least a few hours, and overnight if you used softener. Softened film can look wrinkled while it works and then flatten as it dries, so judging it too early tempts you to poke it and tear it. Sealing a transfer that is still damp underneath can cloud the varnish.

How do you make the film disappear?

Seal the area with a thin coat of gloss varnish so the film edge and the surrounding paint have the same sheen, then follow with your usual matt or satin coat. Once everything is one finish, the edge of the film stops catching the light. If you plan to weather the model, do it after the gloss coat so chips and grime sit over the symbol naturally.

Should you apply transfers before or after weathering?

Before most of it. Apply transfers after your main painting and highlights but before chipping, streaks, pigments and mud, then add weathering over the top. That way the markings look as if they have been through the same battles as the armour around them.

Independent resource published by Blubbercove Ltd. This page is not affiliated with, sponsored by, endorsed by, authorised by or licensed by Games Workshop Limited.

Warhammer 40,000® is a registered trademark of Games Workshop Limited. All related logos, names and images are either ® or ™ of Games Workshop Limited.