How to Fix Silvering and Damaged Transfers on Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures

October 13, 2026

You have sealed the model, held it under the lamp, and there it is: a silvery shimmer around the squad marking, or a symbol that tore on one corner. Before you reach for the paint stripper, know that most transfer faults can be rescued with a pin, a little softener and some careful paint. This guide covers the common failures and what to do about each one.

The short answer: silvering is trapped air under the film, so prick the shiny area with a fine pin, flood it with softener and let it dry, then reseal with gloss and matt varnish. Torn or crooked transfers can be touched up with paint or lifted off with softener and tape, and replaced on a freshly glossed surface.

What is silvering and why does it happen?

Silvering is the frosty, reflective patch you see when light bounces off air trapped between the transfer film and the paint. It almost always means the film went onto a matt or textured surface, or onto paint that was not fully dry. It can also appear when a transfer is applied with too little liquid underneath to let it settle.

Can you fix silvering after varnishing?

Often, yes, although it is easier before the final matt coat. Prick the silvered area several times with the tip of a fine pin or a fresh blade, brush softener over it so it can seep through the holes, and leave it to dry overnight. The film should pull down into contact with the surface, and a gloss coat followed by matt usually hides any remaining shine.

Problem	Likely cause	Fix
Silvery haze over the symbol	Air under the film; matt surface underneath	Pin-prick, softener, dry, gloss then matt
Visible shiny rectangle around it	Excess film; mismatched sheen	Gloss coat to level, then matt over everything
Edge lifting	Poor adhesion; no setting solution	Wick setting solution or thin varnish under the edge
Small tear or missing chip	Film handled while soft	Touch in with matching paint; or call it battle damage
Crooked or wrong transfer	Not repositioned before drying	Remove with softener and tape, re-gloss, reapply

How do you stop silvering happening next time?

Apply transfers only onto a smooth gloss coat that has cured fully, use setting solution underneath, and cut away as much clear film as possible. Draw the water out with a cotton bud rolled from the centre outwards. Our guide to applying transfers walks through the full routine.

How do you fix a lifting edge?

Touch a brush loaded with setting solution or very thin gloss varnish to the edge and let capillary action draw it underneath. Press the edge down gently with a damp cotton bud and leave it to dry. A gloss coat afterwards locks it in place.

How do you repair a torn transfer?

If a corner of a symbol has torn away, mix a paint that matches the printed colour and carefully fill the gap with a fine brush. On battle-worn armour, you can turn the damage into a deliberate chip by adding a dark centre and a fine highlight on the lower edge. Nobody will know it was an accident.

How do you remove a transfer completely?

Brush softener over the transfer and let it work for a minute, then press a piece of low-tack masking tape over it and lift; the softened film usually comes away with the tape. Repeat for stubborn pieces. If the transfer is already varnished, you may need to gently scrape it with the side of a blade or touch up and repaint that panel.

Can you paint over a failed transfer?

Yes. Once it is fully dry and sealed, a transfer can be painted over like any other surface; two thin coats of the base colour usually cover it. On flat panels, check that the film edge does not leave a ridge before painting over the top.

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