How to Glue Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures: Plastic Glue vs Superglue

Choosing the right glue is the first real decision in building a Warhammer 40,000 army, and the wrong choice is behind most wobbly arms, gappy joints and white, frosted residue. The rules are simple once you know them.

The short answer: use plastic glue (polystyrene cement) for plastic-to-plastic joints, superglue for resin, metal and mixed materials, and PVA for sand and basing materials. Scrape paint off joints first and hold parts still until the glue grabs.

What's the difference between plastic glue and superglue?

Plastic glue softens the surfaces of polystyrene and fuses them together, creating a welded joint that's often stronger than the plastic around it. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) bonds almost any material quickly but sits on the surface, so the joint is more brittle and can snap under a sideways knock.

Which glue should I use for plastic miniatures?

Plastic glue, every time, for plastic-to-plastic joints. Thin liquid plastic glue with a brush or needle applicator gives the cleanest results because it wicks into the joint. Thicker tube cement fills small gaps but strings and smears, so use it sparingly.

Which glue should I use for resin and metal miniatures?

Superglue, because plastic glue has no effect on resin or metal. Use gel superglue for vertical joints and slightly uneven surfaces, and thin superglue for close-fitting parts. Heavy metal parts benefit from a metal pin as well as glue.

Do I need to scrape paint off before gluing?

Yes. Glue only bonds to the surface it touches, so if that surface is paint or primer, the joint is only as strong as the paint. Scrape contact points back to bare plastic with a hobby knife before gluing, especially when using plastic glue.

How long does plastic glue take to dry?

Plastic glue grabs within a minute or two, leaving a few moments to adjust the pose. Joints can be handled gently after an hour or so, but full strength takes several hours, so leave assembled models overnight before priming or heavy handling.

How do I hold parts in place while the glue sets?

Hold the part for 30–60 seconds, then support it with reusable putty, rubber bands or small clamps while it cures. Build in sub-assemblies, adding arms and weapons once the body has set rather than gluing everything at once.

Why does superglue leave a white residue?

That white haze is called frosting or blooming. It happens when superglue vapour reacts with moisture in the air and settles on nearby surfaces. Use less glue, work in a ventilated space, and avoid accelerator sprays near visible areas.

How do I get rid of superglue frosting?

On unpainted models, primer usually hides light frosting completely. On painted models, a thin coat of gloss varnish often makes the haze far less visible, after which you can re-matt the area. Heavy frosting may need careful scraping and a repaint.

How do I fill gaps after gluing?

Small gaps between plastic parts can be closed by applying plastic glue to both faces and pressing them firmly so a little softened plastic squeezes out, then scraping it smooth once dry. Bigger gaps need modelling putty or liquid filler, smoothed with a damp tool and sanded once cured.

Should I glue everything before painting?

Not always. Leaving arms, heads or weapons off makes chests, faces and hard-to-reach details far easier to paint. Many painters prime and paint in sub-assemblies, scraping contact points clean before final assembly. Magnetising lets you swap options later; see our guide to magnetising arms and weapons.

How do I fix a part glued in the wrong place?

Superglue joints often release after a soak in isopropyl alcohol or a spell in the freezer, which makes the bond brittle enough to pop apart. Plastic glue welds are permanent, so the only fix is careful cutting along the join with a fine saw or hobby knife, followed by filling. Our guide to stripping paint covers safe isopropyl alcohol soaks.

Which glue should I use for basing?

PVA (white glue) for sand, grit and static grass, and superglue for heavier pieces like cork, stones and resin details. Once the sand is dry, a thinned PVA wash brushed over the top locks it in place before priming. Our basing guide covers the full process.

How do I glue clear parts like canopies and lenses?

Avoid superglue on clear plastic, because its fumes can fog it, and use plastic glue only sparingly because it can mark the surface. A PVA-based glue made for clear parts dries transparent and won't cloud them. Fit clear parts last, after painting, wherever the kit allows.

How do I glue very small parts?

Pick tiny parts up with fine tweezers, and put the glue on the larger part rather than the small one, using a cocktail stick or pin to place a tiny drop. Less glue means less mess and a faster grab. Work over a tray so dropped parts don't vanish into the carpet.

How do I stop heavy parts snapping off?

Pin them. Drill a small hole into both parts with a pin vice, glue a short length of brass or steel wire into one side, then glue the parts together over it. A pinned joint holds far better than glue alone, especially on metal models.

Is hobby glue safe to use?

Both glues give off fumes, so work in a ventilated room and keep lids on between uses. Superglue bonds skin in seconds; soak stuck fingers in warm, soapy water and roll the skin apart gently rather than pulling. Keep all glues away from children and pets.

What should I do after assembly?

Let everything cure overnight, clean off any glue smears and check for gaps, then base and prime. Our guides to removing mould lines and basing cover the clean-up and the next step.

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Warhammer 40,000® is a registered trade mark of Games Workshop Limited. This is an independent hobby guide and is not affiliated with, endorsed or sponsored by Games Workshop.