How to Use Weathering Pigments on Warhammer 40,000 Miniatures

October 11, 2026

Weathering pigments are finely ground colour powders, the same idea as artists' pigments, sold in small pots for model makers. They give a soft, dusty texture that is very hard to fake with paint, which is why vehicle painters have used them for years. They are just as useful on infantry boots, cloaks and bases, provided you know how to make them stick.

The short answer: paint and varnish the model first, then brush pigment on dry for soft dust or mix it with a little fixer, white spirit or matt medium for stronger grime. Knock back any excess with a clean, stiff brush, lock it in with fixer or a thin matt varnish, and always build up gradually because pigments are much easier to add than to remove.

Dry, wet or fixed: which application method?

Method	How it's done	Look	Durability	Best for
Dry brushing on powder	Stiff brush, powder straight from the pot	Soft, subtle dust	Low until fixed	Lower legs, hems, tank hulls
Wet with fixer or white spirit	Powder placed, then a drop of liquid flowed in	Stronger, settled grime	Good once dry	Tracks, recesses, exhausts
Mixed with matt medium	Pigment stirred into acrylic matt medium as a paste	Textured, crusty build-up	Very good	Caked dirt, heavy rust and soot
Mixed into a wash	A pinch of pigment in a thinned brown wash	Gritty tint	Good	Quick infantry grime

What are weathering pigments made of?

They are dry colour particles, usually earth tones, blacks, rust oranges and pale dust shades, with no binder. That is the whole point: without a binder they sit on the surface like real dust. It is also why they rub off on fingers until you fix them.

When should I add pigments in the painting process?

Last, or very nearly last. Finish the paintwork, add any chipping or rust effects, then apply a coat of matt varnish before the pigment. A matt surface has a slight tooth that grips powder, while gloss lets it slide and clump.

How do I apply pigment dry?

Pick up a tiny amount on a stiff, short-bristled brush, tap off the excess onto a tissue, then stipple or scrub it onto the lower parts of the model. Work from the ground upwards so the effect fades naturally. Blow or brush away loose powder before deciding whether you need more.

How do I fix pigments so they don't rub off?

Flow a drop of pigment fixer, white spirit or isopropyl alcohol into the powder with a soft brush and let capillary action pull it through; do not scrub. Once dry, a thin spray of matt varnish adds handling protection. Be aware that any liquid darkens and concentrates the pigment, so start lighter than you want the result to be.

Will varnish make my pigments disappear?

A heavy coat can. Liquid soaks into the powder and makes it look darker and less dusty, sometimes almost invisible. Use one light mist rather than a wet coat, and accept that you may need a second dusting of dry pigment afterwards. Our guide to gloss, satin and matt varnish explains why only matt suits pigment work.

Which pigment colours should a beginner buy?

Three cover most jobs: a light dust or sand tone, a mid earth brown and a soot black. Add a rust orange if you paint vehicles. Match the dust colour to your basing scheme so the model looks as though it has walked through that terrain.

Can I make my own pigments?

Yes. Artists' soft pastels scraped with a craft knife, or fine-sanded dried paint, work as a budget substitute. Avoid chalk with added binders or oils, and never use anything you would not want on your hands or near food. Store home-made powder in labelled, lidded pots.

Where does pigment look most convincing?

Where real dust and grime collect: boots, knees, cloak hems, tank tracks, the lower hull, around exhausts and inside recesses. Keep faces, lenses and freshly highlighted edges clean so they still read as focal points. If you have already added battle damage, a little dust in the chips ties the effects together.

What if I've overdone it?

Before fixing, a clean dry brush or a puff of air removes most of it. After fixing, a damp brush with a little water or white spirit can lift the worst, and you can always paint back over a small area. This is why thin, gradual layers matter more with pigments than with any other weathering material.

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