How to Paint Miniatures Step by Step: A Beginner's Guide for Any Game

Quick answer: painting a miniature comes down to eight steps in this order: prepare the model (clip, clean up and wash if needed), prime it, basecoat each area in thin coats, wash it to add shadow, drybrush or highlight the raised edges, paint the details, base it, then varnish it. Thin your paint, let each stage dry before starting the next, and paint the hardest-to-reach areas first. That works for a board-game hero, a roleplaying figure or a wargaming squad, whatever the brand.

This guide is for complete beginners. It explains what each step does and why the order matters, and gives you a four-session plan for your first model. Each step links to a deeper guide when you're ready for more. Starting with a model for one particular army game? Our first-model walkthrough for army games covers that case.

What you need to start

Item Why you need it Beginner tip
Clippers and a hobby knife To cut parts from the frame and scrape off mould lines Scrape with the back of the blade for control
Primer (spray or brush-on) Gives paint a surface to grip Grey is the safe first choice
Acrylic miniature paints Basecoats and details A few colours plus black and white is plenty
A dark wash Shades recesses in one coat Black or brown suits almost any model
Two or three brushes A medium brush for basecoats, a fine-pointed one for detail, an old one for drybrushing Don't basecoat with your smallest brush
Palette and water pot To thin paint and rinse brushes A wet palette keeps paint workable for longer
Basing material and PVA To finish the base Sand plus one tuft looks finished
Matt varnish Protects the paint from handling Matt suits most models

For brush sizes and shapes, see which brushes you need for miniatures. To make your own palette for next to nothing, see how to make a wet palette.

Choose an easy first model

Pick a single human-sized figure on a 25–32 mm base with big, clear areas: a cloak, armour plates, a shield. Avoid fine faces, fur and complicated layered clothing for now. Plastic is the easiest material to start on. Resin and metal models need washing before priming, and 3D-printed resin needs its own preparation first: see how to prep and paint 3D-printed resin miniatures.

Step 1: Prepare the model

  1. Clip parts from the frame close to the part, then trim the last nub with a knife. See how to clip miniatures off the sprue.
  2. Remove mould lines, the thin raised seams left by manufacturing, by scraping along them with the back of a hobby knife. They show up badly once paint goes on. See removing mould lines.
  3. Wash resin and metal parts in warm, soapy water with an old toothbrush, rinse and leave them to dry. As Brush & Paint reports from a paint maker's preparation guide, this removes mould release agents that can stop primer sticking.
  4. Glue the model together, or leave awkward parts separate to paint them more easily.

Step 2: Prime it

Primer is a thin first coat that helps acrylic paint grip and gives you an even starting colour. The Army Painter's guidance for its spray primers:

  • Spray outdoors or somewhere well ventilated, out of wind and rain.
  • Aim for 15–27°C and 40–60% humidity. Below that range the primer may not dry properly; above it, it can turn powdery or grainy.
  • Shake the can for at least a minute and test-spray first.
  • Hold it 15–20 cm away and build up several thin passes, starting and stopping off the model.
  • Let it dry thoroughly. The Army Painter suggests at least a few hours, or overnight.

Not sure which colour? Grey is the safe default. Our primer colour guide explains when to use black, white or zenithal.

Step 3: Basecoat each area

The basecoat is the first flat colour on each part of the model. The Army Painter's method:

  • Thin the paint on your palette to about the consistency of heavy cream.
  • Load only the front half of the bristles.
  • Paint the hardest-to-reach areas first, so you don't catch finished areas later.
  • Use one or two thin layers rather than one thick one, so you don't cover the detail. Some colours, such as yellows and whites, need more.
  • Keep a clean damp brush nearby to wipe off mistakes before they dry.
  • Let it dry completely: from a few minutes to about an hour, depending on thickness and humidity.

A patchy first coat is normal. Let it dry and add a second thin coat rather than a thicker one. More on getting the mix right in how to thin paints, and on drying times in how long miniature paint takes to dry.

Step 4: Wash for shadow

A wash is a thin, semi-transparent paint that runs off raised areas and settles in the recesses, making instant shadows. The Army Painter's advice:

  • Work one section at a time, with a well-loaded brush.
  • If wash pools where you don't want it, lift it off with a clean, slightly damp brush while it's still wet.
  • If you're new, one wash over the whole model gives a good result. A brown or black wash suits most colours.
  • Let it dry completely before the next step.

See how to use washes for choosing colours.

Step 5: Drybrush or highlight the raised edges

Highlights bring back the light. The quickest beginner method is drybrushing: load an old brush, wipe almost all the paint off on a paper towel, then flick it lightly over the model so only the raised edges and texture pick up colour. The Army Painter's common mistakes are too much paint (streaks), pressing too hard (chalky marks) and drybrushing over paint that isn't dry.

Two orders both work:

  • Wash first, then drybrush or highlight. This is the classic order in step-by-step workflows such as Miniature Painting Forge's. The highlights stay bright.
  • Drybrush first, then wash or glaze. The Army Painter notes that drybrushing often comes before washes or glazes, which soften the highlight. Softer, but a little darker.

Once you're comfortable, try edge highlighting on armour and weapons, or the slapchop method, which builds on drybrushing. There is a full drybrushing guide too.

Step 6: Paint the details

Eyes, buckles, gems, pouches and trim come last, with your finest brush and slightly thinner paint. Brace your hands together or on the desk for a steadier line; see how to hold miniatures while painting. If something goes wrong, paint over it with the base colour once it's dry. How to fix painting mistakes covers bigger slips.

Step 7: Base it

Brush PVA over the base, dip it in sand, let it dry, paint it an earth colour and drybrush a lighter shade. Add a tuft or a patch of static grass, then paint the rim a clean colour. Our guides to basing miniatures step by step and static grass and tufts go further.

Step 8: Varnish it

Varnish seals the paint against handling. Miniature Painting Forge calls it the final stage and points out that washes are especially fragile without it. Matt varnish suits most models; gloss can go on gems and wet effects afterwards. See how to varnish miniatures and gloss, satin or matt varnish.

Worked example: your first model in four sessions

Because each stage has to dry before the next, splitting your first model into short sessions is easier than doing it all in one go:

Session What you do Leave it to dry
1 Clip, clean up mould lines, wash if resin or metal, glue, prime Primer: at least a few hours or overnight
2 Basecoat every area, hardest to reach first; second thin coat where patchy Until fully dry
3 Wash the whole model, then drybrush or highlight once the wash is dry Until fully dry
4 Details, base, rim, then matt varnish Follow the varnish can

Pressed for time across a whole collection? How to clear your painting backlog has ideas for batching.

Beginner mistakes checklist

  • Paint straight from the pot, too thick, filling in the detail.
  • Skipping primer, so paint rubs off at the edges.
  • Spraying primer in cold, damp or windy weather.
  • Starting the next stage before the last one is dry.
  • Using the smallest brush for everything.
  • Overloading the brush, so paint floods into the ferrule. See how to clean miniature paint brushes.
  • Expecting the first model to look like a competition piece. It won't, and that's fine.

Once it's finished, show it off

A painted model deserves better than the back of a shelf. Small tiered stands give each model its own height, so the back row stays visible. The WarSplay Classic Mini holds 8 miniatures on 25–32 mm round bases, a good size while your first few models come off the desk, and the WarSplay Classic holds 17 on the same base sizes in a 20 cm × 11 cm footprint. Both slot together as the collection grows. Browse all modular miniature display stands.

Frequently asked questions

What is the correct order for painting a miniature?

Prepare, prime, basecoat, wash, drybrush or highlight, details, base, varnish. Let each stage dry before the next one.

Do I have to prime miniatures before painting?

You should. Primer gives acrylic paint a surface to grip, so it chips and rubs off less, and it gives you an even starting colour. Brush-on primer is an option if you can't spray outside.

How thin should miniature paint be?

For basecoats, The Army Painter suggests the consistency of heavy cream. Wargamer's rule of thumb is as thin as possible without the paint becoming see-through. Two thin coats look better than one thick one.

Do I need to wash miniatures before painting?

Wash resin and metal models in warm soapy water to remove release agents that stop primer sticking, then let them dry. Plastic models usually just need checking for dust.

Which colours should a beginner buy first?

Only the colours your first model needs, plus black, white, a metal if it has weapons or armour, and one dark wash. Add more as each new model needs them.

Do I need to varnish my miniatures?

If you will handle or play with them, yes. Varnish protects the paint, and washes in particular rub off without it. Matt varnish suits most models.

Sources

Checked against the sources above on 27 October 2026. Brand names belong to their respective owners.